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Universal Screen Cleaner (Large Bottle) for LCD & Plasmas TV, all iPad, iPhone, Galaxy Tabs, and Smartphones
|Audio/Video Inputs||3x HDMI® on rear panel, 1x HDMI on front panel|
|Audio/Video Outputs||1x HDMI on rear panel|
|Digital Audio Outputs||1x S/PDIF Optical (Toslink®)* and 1x Digital Coax*|
|Analog Audio Outputs||1x 3.5mm (1/8") stereo|
|Supports High-Speed 1080p HDMI||Yes|
|Supported Video Resolutions||480i, 480p, 576i, 576p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p|
|Supports 3D Video||Yes|
|Fully HDCP Compliant||Yes|
|Supports Deep Color (x.v.Color) at 12-bits per channel (36-bit total)||Yes|
|Uncompressed Audio Support||LPCM|
|Compressed Audio Support||DTS Digital™, Dolby Digital™, DTS-HD Master Audio™, Dolby True HD™|
|Audio Sample Rate||44.1 ~ 192 kHz|
|Dimensions||6.0" x 2.8" x 1.0"|
*The S/PDIF Optical (Toslink) and Digital Coax audio output formats are based on the HDMI audio output. If any of the sync devices (e.g., HDTV, Projector, etc.) connected to the output can only support stereo audio, then the S/PDIF Optical (Toslink) and Digital Coaxial outputs will be limited to PCM stereo audio.
Questions and Answers
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A1234 (the A is whatever letter is supposed to be in the code, and then the 4 number digits).
Please and thanks!
I am using this to extract audio from the HDMI output of an AppleTV and passing the video signal via HDMI to a projector and passing the audio signal vis Toslink to an old A/V receiver that does not have HDMI..
Don't have a 4K TV.
For 4K video, ensure any device (switch, TV, AVR, etc) supports HDMI 2.0 and HDCP 2.2. Technically, HDMI 1.4 supports 4K video, but equipment such as UHD Blu ray players require HDMI 2.0/HDCP 2.2.
From product description: Supported Video Resolutions are 480i, 480p, 576i, 576p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p.
From product manual, video output is HDMI 1.3b. HDMI 1.3b DOES NOT support 4K video.
I bought a 5.1 Vizio surround system thinking that I could run all of my devices into my TV, and then toslink from the TV into the 5.1 system. It didn't work that way. My TV down-mixed everything into 2 channel stereo and then sent that to the system. No good. After some searching I found this switch and thought it could work. It does! So now I have all of my HDMI devices (cable box, ps4, wii u) plugged into the switch and toslink from the switch to the surround system. Everything works as planned and I get high quality video and audio. Perfect solution.
CONS: Front LEDs are WAY too bright!
When watching a DVD or Blu-Ray on my Playstation 3 I wouldn't get center channel audio. Netflix or any other source from the PS3 was fine. Turns out there is a setting in the Video section that handles DVD and Blu-Ray audio that needed to be changed to bitrate in order to get 5.1 audio to pass correctly through this switch. I only found this out after reading every single review on this site and finding another customer that had the same issue. It would have been nice if Monoprice's tech support had been able to resolve this issue.
PROS: Optical out
CONS: Piercingly bright LEDs
Lack of recommended device settings for some extremely common devices
PROS: Concept is great and it allows me to run my playstation 3, apple tv, and comcast cable to my TV which only has one HDMI input port
CONS: Screen often goes black and I have to unplug the switcher and do a hard power cycle to get the picture to work - I think this is a wattage issue
When I now try to watch movies using my ps3 I cannot hear dialogue. I can hear back ground music and special effects but no dialogue
I contacted Technical support and they couldn't help
Since I installed it and configured my HT remote for it I have had only one glitch. At one point a couple months ago the digital audio from the switch stopped. At the suggestion from Monoprice support to power cycle the switch (unplug it), that was cleared up.
Those LEDs!!! Initially I put a piece of electrical tape over the lot of them, but I found I sometimes needed to know the state of the switch as it doesnt always pick up the IR from the HT remote (my experience with this is that such occurrences seem to be inversely proportional to the items price) and I need to switch it to the correct input. So I poked a pinhole in the tape in from of each. That worked for the most part...reducing the LEDs to a less annoying level but allowing me to see their state. But it was not very elegant looking. I should point out that the channel and 2/5.1 LEDs are fairly narrow beam non-diffuse body types so the appear way brighter anywhere directly in from of the switch than well off to the side. The PowerOn/Standy dual LED is a diffuse body type that prsents a more unifor - but too bright intensity on and off axis.
So after living with it covered with tape for over a year I decided to open it up and see what I could do about the problem. All the LEDs except the PowerOn/Standby dual LED use a 681 Ohm SMT current limiting resistor. I found that by increasing these resistors to 5000 Ohms (4.99K) these LEDs light output became acceptable. They could still be reduced more and remain visible, but I stopped there. That is about a factor of 7 reduction in current thru the LEDs. For the dual power LED I used a 2000 Ohm for the red and 1500 Ohm for the blue in place of the resistors originally there. This brought the red output down to something more suitable to a "Standby" mode brightness and the blue LED output close to matching the other blue LEDS. In the process I think I put a marginal blue channel LED into a failure mode but I found a 3mm NTE clear blue LED at my local electronics parts store that seems to match the other blue LED outputs with the came current limiting resistor. If yours is out of warranty, like mine and you arent afraid of desoldering and soldering tiny SMT resistors, this is a good solution to the excess light problem.
PROS: HDMI = Digital audio
Front panel HDMI input
CONS: LEDs WAY too bright for a darkened room
While the product does seem to work just fine (technically speaking) it turns out that unfortunately it’s not the right as-is solution for me :(
My hope was to buy something that would allow me to use my PS3 as a media player and connect the output directly to my TV (via an additional HDMI switcher box, available at monoprice and which works great btw) and to my AVR/Amplifier via the TOS link. While this setup does work (basically) the PS3 and this splitter box seem to honor the HDCP restrictions too harshly/literally at least IMO, please see my investigations/elaborations below...
The problem is (at least how I perceive it) related to the fact that my TV does not support HD multichannel audio i.e. 5.1/DTS etc… (I suspect most TV’s are like this, that’s kind of the point for most of you I’d say, ‘cos if it did and you had a s/pdif pass-through you wouldn’t need this splitter anyway as you could just use your TV to split off the audio).
Anyway as a result this splitter box determines (correctly so, technically speaking) that the best “allowable” audio quality is only 2 channel prologic (because that’s what the TV says via HDCP). The PS3 then respects this limitation and down-mixes my full multichannel audio source into just 2 channels :( Even though my amplifier supports literally all input audio types I’m scuppered by this limitation! Basically the signal limitations for both audio and video are defined by the HDMI device. A better implementation of this device would be to only honor the video constraints of the HDMI (because HDCP rules need to be respected) and override the audio limitations with full-spec audio for want of a better way of saying it (assuming that’s allowed by the HDCP rules, who knows).
So I have (at least as l believe) proven this to be the my issue because if I connect my splitter to a target HDMI device that does support multichannel HD then the PS3 is becomes decidedly happy with that and lifts the down-mix restriction and allows full multichannel HD audio to flow through both the HDMI and TOS link interfaces, yay (sort of).
I therefore feel this device will not perform as many of you expect/hope, specifically if your target HDMI device (TV or whatever) doesn’t support HD multichannel audio, this made me sad because my TV doesn’t...
That all said there is a solution (at least for me) but that solution is only possible if you can leverage an HDMI device that supports full HD multichannel audio which clearly isn’t my TV in my case. I achieved this by using my AVR as a target HDMI device (it has HDMI inputs but doesn’t support 1.3 spec, that why I’m in this predicament in the first place). What I did (and may sound a little messy) is use a an additional HDMI splitter (a separate additional piece of h/w available at monoprice) to split the output of this device (the HDMI/TOS link thingy) into two HDMI outputs, one connected directly to the TV (for video, obviously) and the other connected to the amplifier to authorize full quality audio, messy I know but it works. By doing this I got the PS3 to output full multichannel HD audio via the TOS link!
For the rest of you I hope you have the same option as me, if not maybe you can use some other device as your second HDMI target to achieve the same result (for me the HDMI switch works too, think about that for mo :)). It might be good for someone to make an HDCP fully qualified null-dongle for this purpose (i.e. in confunction with a splitter). Or maybe it's just better to improve this splitter in a future rev :)
BTW for those of you who are one step ahead of me on this you might ask why didn’t I just use the HDMI splitter to split the signal and be done (i.e. audio via HDMI, I tried that earlier this year). The reason it didn’t work is because my amplifier won’t receive audio unless it’s connected to a TV or some sort of legitimate HDMI target device and unfortunately because of various other complexities (related to my amp not being 1.3 HDMI spec) I couldn’t get it to work, the PS3 refused the split. Basically the PS3 is very fussy!
FYI in closing my DirectTV box doesn’t really care about any of this, you get full HD audio regardless, if all I wanted was a solution for DirectTV is works great the simple way, as you would expect/hope, go figure...
Anyway that ends my assessment of this thing.
Best of luck to you all...
Monoprice is awesome btw, that's why I bothered to write all this down for the monoprice community benefit and all that good stuff. I'm very happy with almost everything I've ever bought from this place!
In steps this little device. This allows me to split full digital hdmi to full digital hdmi and good ol fashioned rca for the patio speakers. My initial concern was that it would introduce a bit of a delay but they are absolutely dead-on in sync. I couldn't be happier and would recommend this to anyone with similar issues.
PROS: - much smaller than i expected
- audio plays in sync through all outputs simultaneously
- no sound/video noise
CONS: - LED's are too bright (hello electrical tape)
That was when I discovered that they will not pass Amazon's 5.1 Dolby to their optical output. Neither the TiVo Roamio nor my Roku 3 have Dolby sound when processed through this switcher.
The 'normal' HD channels coming off the TiVo (such as HBO) work fine for Dolby from the optical jack, but Amazon programs result in no output unless I change the switcher to 2.1 sound, which is unacceptable.
If I run an optical cable directly from the TiVo to my audio setup, Amazon Dolby works just fine, so it's definitely something in the switcher.
Be aware of this if you have a similar setup. I don't know if Monoprice has a switcher that does route Amazon Prime Dolby from HDMI to the optical output, but this one most definitely does not. Between the two switchers, I kind of feel like I wasted about $100.
Thank you for your review on PID 5557. I am sorry to hear about the issues experienced with surround sound after adding the TiVo Roamio and Roku 3. Unfortunately, it is possible that Amazon Prime Instant is outputting surround sound in Dolby Digital Plus (like Netflix currently does). I recommend checking with Amazon just to verify for sure as I was unable to find this information in their FAQ. If this is the case, this switch would not be capable of supporting that as it does not support DD+, sorry to say. This switch is only compatible with LPCM, DTS Digital, Dolby Digital, DTS-HD Master Audio, and Dolby True HD. Please let me know if you are able to verify the audio format and I will be happy to further assist you if needed. I truly apologize for the trouble and I hope this helps.
Tech Support Associate
In the room I am using this in, My Display only has 1 DVI input and my AV Receiver does not support HDMI and only has 2 Toslink Optical inputs. So this switch has taken HDMI from 2 Dish network receivers, 1 Blu Ray player, and a PS3, and switches it all. It even converts the HDMI audio to a Single Toslink, so I was able to remove the spiderweb of Toslinks and my 3 to 1 Toslink switch.
It does the job well.
In fact there are only two annoyances that caused me not to rate this product at a 10. The first is the 4th HDMI input is located on the front panel. Not optimal in my opinion. The second reason, an most trivial... who the heck spec'ed out those LEDs? They are too bright and I have had to filter them with paper tape.
Otherwise, a great product.
1. Since the LEDs are ridiculously bright, I took a piece of black duct tape and used a hole puncher to make little round disks to cover them. Now they are at a "normal" brightness.
2. I have a Comcast HD DVR STB attached to the switch and originally it only outputted stereo PCM audio via coax/optical. To fix this, I had to change the HDMI audio setting on the STB from "Auto" to "Pass through". To get to the HDMI settings, I powered off the STB and then pressed "menu" on the Comcast remote. From there you should see the menu.
3. The HDMI audio options on my Sony DVD player is either "Auto" or "PCM". Since my HDTV does not do 5.1 audio, my DVD player will only send PCM stereo audio via HDMI. To workaround that, I hooked up the digital coax directly from my DVD player to my audio receiver. My audio receiver will accept either optical or coax for the same source. The coax signal will take precedence over the optical signal so I never have to change my the source on my audio receiver.
4. To workaround the problem of having to power cycle the HDMI switch whenever the video signal refuses to sync, as suggested by another reviewer, connect the power cord of the HDMI switch to a switched outlet on your audio receiver. That way when you turn off your audio receiver, the HDMI switch gets powered down as well. It'll save you from having to get up to manually power cycle it.
Due to the video sync issue, non 5.1 audio and super bright LED, I can only give this product a 9 out of 10. The audio issue might not be an issue with the HDMI switch, but maybe Monoprice can work around it. If this were a more expensive switch, the rating would be lower.
Hope the tips provided will help others.
Contrary to what is stated in RED in the description, even when HDMI output device - my TV - only handles two-channel stereo, as long as input HDMI device attempts multichannel and 5.1 CH is selected on remote, I receive Dolby Digital, DTS-HD Master Audio, and Dolby True HD audio at my receiver. Awesome! Very pleased with Monoprice's support and pricing as well.
PROS: Seamlessly provides digital audio streams from up to four HDMI devices to a non-HDMI receiver.
CONS: Virtually none.