Maker Select 3D Printer v2
    Product # 13860
    $299.99
    In Stock This item should ship today (6/26/2017) if ordered within 8 hours 53 minutes

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    Maker Select 3D Printer v2

    Maker Select 3D Printer

    If you're ready to take your ideas and designs from paper or CAD file to the next level, the Monoprice MAKER SELECT 3D Printer is the perfect starter solution for your needs! Unlike kit-based printers, which require a certain level of knowledge, experience, and time to assemble, the MAKER SELECT 3D Printer is assembled using only 6 screws and includes everything you need to begin printing right out of the box. It has the ability to print any type of 3D filament and has a price point lower than most DIY kits, making it the best in class choice for your 3D printing needs.

    Preloaded with Printable 3D Models
    Includes Sample PLA Filament
    Ready to Print in 10 Minutes!
    Preloaded with Printable 3D Models
    Includes Sample PLA Filament
    Ready to Print in 10 Minutes!


    Print Now
    Print Now: Unlike DIY kits, this printer comes almost fully assembled, requiring just 4 screws to secure the frame to the base and 2 screws to attach the filament holder. Additionally, the printer comes with everything you need, including sample PLA filament and a microSD card with sample 3D model files, ready to print!

    Compatible Software
    Compatible Software: With the ability to use both open-source and commercial software, such as Cura, Repetier, or Simplify 3D, the MAKER SELECT 3D Printer is compatible with Windows®, Mac® OS X®, and Linux.

    Large Volume
    Large Volume: The large 8" x 8" build plate and generous 7" vertical spacing means that you can print larger, more complex models.




    Quotes

    At less than the price of new gaming console,
    give the gift of learning and creativity this year!


    Quotes

    Maker Select 3D Printer (13860)


    • Includes 2GB microSD card preloaded with printable 3D models out of the box
    • Includes sample PLA filament so you can print right out of the box
    • Heated build plate allows for high-reliability printing of slow cooling materials
    • Can use compatible software, such as Cura, Repetier, or Simplify 3D
    • Expanded user's manual with detailed, easy-to-follow assembly and usage instructions
    • Tighten just 6 screws and be printing in 10 minutes
    • Choose to give the innovative and creative gift of learning

     
    Maker Select 3D Printer

    Heated Build Plate

    The heated build plate allows you to print slower cooling materials.



     

    MicroSD Card Slot

    Use a microSD™ card to store sliced GCode files, then plug the card into the microSD card slot to print without the need to connect to a Windows® or Mac® PC. The printer includes a 2GB microSD card with sample 3D models, which you can slice and store on the card for direct printing.

    MicroSD Card
     
    MicroSD Card

     




     
    1 Year Warranty

    Warranty

    Monoprice not only stands behind every product we sell with a 1 year replacement warranty, we offer a 30-day money back guarantee as well! If the product you purchase does not satisfy your needs, send it back for a full refund.



    Quality at a Fair Price

    Quality at a Fair Price

    Monoprice's rugged design and rigid quality control standards deliver high quality products at fair prices.



    Service & Support

    Service & Support

    You're never on your own with Monoprice products! We have a full team of friendly and knowledgeable technicians available to answer your questions, both before and after the sale. Contact our technical support team for questions about our products, troubleshooting, or even suggestions for products to fit your particular needs. Not to be outdone, our friendly and helpful customer service team is here to make your ordering, delivery, and any possible returns a quick and painless operation, from start to finish!





     
      MP Select Mini 3D Printer Maker Select 3D Printer Ultimate 3D Printer
      15365 13860 15710
      MP Select
    Mini 3D Printer
    Maker Select
    3D Printer
    Ultimate
    3D Printer
    Heated Build Plate
    Build Area 4.7" x 4.7" x 4.7"
    (120 x 120 x 120 mm)
    7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1"
    (200 x 200 x 180 mm)
    7.9" x 7.9" x 6.9"
    (200 x 200 x 175 mm)
    Resolution 100 microns (0.1mm) 100 microns (0.1mm) 20 microns (0.02mm)
    Filament Diameter 1.75mm 1.75mm 1.75mm
    Printing Speed 55 mm/sec 100 mm/sec 150 mm/sec
    Max. Extruder Temp. 446°F (230°C) 500°F (260°C) 500°F (260°C)
    Connectivity USB, MicroSD™ card USB, MicroSD™ card USB, SD™ card
    Compatible Software Cura (recommended),
    Repetier-Host, ReplicatorG,
    Simplify 3D
    Cura (recommended),
    Repetier-Host, ReplicatorG,
    Simplify 3D
    Cura (recommended),
    Repetier-Host, ReplicatorG,
    Simplify 3D
    Printable Materials ABS, PLA, XT Copolyester,
    PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA,
    HIPS, Jelly, Foam, Felty
    ABS, PLA, XT Copolyester,
    PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA,
    HIPS, Jelly, Foam, Felty
    ABS, PLA, XT Copolyester,
    PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA,
    HIPS, Jelly, Foam, Felty
     


    Support Files:



    SD™ and microSD™ are trademarks or registered trademarks of SD-3C, LLC in the United States, other countries, or both.

    Apple®, Mac®, and OS X® are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries.

    Microsoft® and Windows® are registered trademarks of Microsoft Corporation in the United States and/or other countries.


     
    Start typing your question and we'll check if it was already asked and answered. Learn More
    Browse 53 questions Browse 53 questions and 115 answers
    what are the overall physical dimension, i.e. the footprint of the whole printer?
    A shopper on Feb 8, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Thank you for your inquiry. Here are the measurements of the printer:
    Width - 16"
    Length and Depth- 15 1/4"
    Height - 15 1/4" - 23" with the spool holder with our filament spools.

    Here are the measurements of the control box:
    Width - 4 3/4"
    Length - 13 1/2"
    Height - 4 1/2"
    Would this printer be able to print in carbon fiber or stainless steel infused pla?
    A shopper on May 18, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: I have printed with Hatchbox Carbon Fiber-PLA with no issue
    is there an european plug version ?
    A shopper on Nov 26, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: The ine I rcvd has a 110 to 220 switching power supply and standard iec (house shaped three prong) plug, euro cords should work fine, but I would check the power supply specs carefully, to verify that the power supply does in fact support being switched to 220. Your mileage may vary, but as long as you find out about the power supply prior to plugging in, and manually make sure the 110-220 switch has been set properly.
    how do I download cura?
    A shopper on Dec 26, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: I had to download Cura from ultimaker dot com/en/products/cura-software/list I wasn't able to use the version included on the microSD card because I'm running Linux.
    Do I need to install Cura 2 or Cura 15.04?
    A shopper on Dec 6, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: Cura 2.x can have issues with adding solid layers to your model if a minor error happens in a face join or hole. If this happens, use 15.4. I am using both, I only switch from 2.x if needed as it is much more convenient. ALWAYS check your layers before printing as it can save you heartache when you discover a problem in a big print 3/4 of the way through.
    Do you ship to UK?
    A shopper on Jan 1, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Hello, we do indeed ship internationally! If you have further questions for specific countries please do not hesitate to contact our customer service team via live chat or phones. Thank you for your question!
    Does the currently sold model (as of 2/28/17) require the grounding mod to correct the temperature swing/fluctuations in the hot-end and heated bed?
    Dennis H on Feb 28, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Not from what I can tell. Mine works good. You will see a few degrees on any of these machines but it does a nice job.
    Where can I find a slicer profile for this printer?
    A shopper on Dec 1, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: Honestly, the included software defaults are not that bad. Of course different filaments/brands of filaments will have slightly different settings, but I've found that 210C for the extruder and 70C for the bed works great without rafts. My normal basic settings are 0.2mm layer height, 0.8 shell thickness, 0.6 bottom/top thickness, 10% fill density, 210C extruder, 70C bed, and no rafts for PLA. Also, make sure your nozzle size is set to 0.4mm. As long as you have the bed leveled properly, it produces good quality, fast prints.
    The unit ships with a spool holder (plastic part with giant nut) that can't hold a 1kg spool (it's too narrow). Do you carry a wider spool holder (by 1inch) or am I going to need to design and print my own?
    Thomas W on Dec 25, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: I don't believe that the filament spool sizes are so standardized that your statement at the start of your question is 100% correct. I use Inland brand (Microcenter) 1 Kg spools and they fit just fine. I can't say how well it works for other brands though, including Monoprice's spools.
    Does this come assembled?
    Andrew L on Nov 26, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: Only 6 screws (included) have to be attached with a hex key (included). Also 4 cables have to be connected, but they are clearly labeled and well designed. If you can use a screwdriver and plug in cords then you're good to go.
    Can i buy an enclosure for it?
    MICHAEL B on Feb 27, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Thank you for your question. Unfortunately we would not carry an enclosure for the printer. I do apologize for any inconvenience.
    Is this a good option for beginners? I am also looking at the Cube 3 printer which seems like it might be a little more user friendly.
    A shopper on Nov 26, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: The Cube 3 and M3D printer brands are built like macs are for computers, when you get this you are buying a windows machine. It runs better and costs less, but a bit more assembly is required. Assembly for me took about an hour, which is nothing compared to print times. Optimizing took about 4 more hours, but that's to get the perfect print, which is part of the joy. There was some hex screws to assemble the main pieces together, and sliding them in was a bit of a hassle. But once it's setup, it's setup. I have it plugged into a commercial server right now and can print files remotely through my phone on Cura. You can find cheap filaments on EBay for ~12$, I had the most luck so far with ABS despite what other people say.
    can this print 3.0mm filament?
    New User U on Feb 11, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: It's designed to take 1.75mm but with a whole entirely new hot end assembly you might be able to pull it off.
    how long does a $20 roll of filament last?
    A shopper on Dec 3, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: The answer depends on the amount of filament that is needed for each project. The amount of filament needed is calculated by the Slicing software you use to generate the g-code. I use Repetier software which gives the estimated printing time and the amount of filament needed. You will find yourself buying different colors of filament and different filament types (PLA, ABS, etc.). Buy a 1 Kg roll with your initial purchase. The roll will last a lot longer before the budget lets you buy other spools. Great 3D printer.
    Hey, fairly new to the 3d printing game, and was trying to calibrate my bed today. I noticed what looked like my heater bed being warped. (Note: I had noticed these same irregularities when I first got the printer, but thought it was because I was too green). When leveling the bed I would start at each corner, then move the print head to the other side. (Let's pretend we are looking at the front of the printer, and I am going from left to right.) I started noticing that my print head would get further away from the bed when I reached the halfway mark, and then it would be almost touching the bed once it reached the right side. So I put my level on it, and noticed that I can see day light from the other side. (I took pictures, would be happy to share). What I would like to know, is am I being crazy/paranoid about this? or will this directly effect my prints, and should I look at getting it replaced?

    P.S. I love the printer, even with the possible warped bed it seems to do a great job printing. Very easy to jump into for a first time printee.
    Rodney L on Apr 4, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: When I purchased this printer I had the same issue. I did two separate things to help resolve this issue. The first thing that I did was replace the included bed leveling fasteners to a M3 lock nut (trade name is Nylock I believe). With the M3 locking nuts, you will see your bed maintaining the calibration for a much, much longer time than without. A pack of about 10 of these locking nuts can be purchased for less than 5$ at a number of retailers.

    The second thing that I did was find a more precise way of calibrating and leveling the bed. My solution to this was to buy a dial indicator. You can find a dial indicator on an online retailer with acceptable precision and accuracy for less than 30$. Once I had the indicator, and since my bed leveling was now staying within acceptable range between prints thanks to the lock nuts, I printed out a mounting bracket for this printer. You can find dozens of options for these on thingiverse (any website where models are shared) and they take a minimal amount of time to print. Whichever bracket you end up deciding on combined with the dial indicator will make your bed leveling process more accurate and less painful. You measure in the same spots you usually do, but now you have a gauge to look at instead of sticking a piece of paper under the extruder nozzle a dozen times per corner. This thing can really fly when you get it dialed in, Good luck!
    Maker Select 3D Printer v2
    Maker Select 3D Printer v2
    how do i connect it to my computer to the printer? i have one and id doesnt connect via usb
    A shopper on Mar 26, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: You are much better off using the SD Card.
    How to load and print a custom model?
    A shopper on Jan 3, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Install either Cura or Repetier which is located on the SD Card provided with the 3D Printer. Import a Model and then Slice the model to prepare for printing. Export to your SD Card or Connect and Print via USB.
    Does this come assembled?
    A shopper on Nov 26, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: There are 4 screws that need to be secured for the base, and 2 screws for the spool holder. Assembly is actually quite simple.
    What SD is compatible with the printer? I have a 128 gb micro sd that wont show the loaded files.
    A shopper on Jan 7, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Even a small micro SD is fine. When you insert it into the printer the most recently added files is on the bottom of the list.

    You must go: SD Card > Mount. Than; SD Card > Print. Shows you the list.

    IMHO - having a bunch of print files (known as "gcode" files) on the card is just a pain in the a**, as you have to scroll forever on the menus to find what you want,
    and since the screen is small, if the filename is longer than the screen it has to scroll slowly to show you the name, which is hard to read!

    You'll not usually be printing something more than once or twice anyway, you can keep the gcode files you use a lot on the card, but I juTheresTst save them on the PC, in the folder with the stl or obj design files.
    There is no need to keep a bunch on the card!

    In Windows you can save to disk, then in Cura at the bottom right there's a little symbol at the end of "Saved as: C\blah...blah... . Clicking that will open the saved file's folder with the file highlighted.
    You can then RIGHT click and "Send to" > Removal Disk M: {on my machine}, which copies it to the SD Card. _OR_ There's ALSO a button at the TOP LEFT of Cura that SAYS "SD" if it's inserted, click & it saves to SD.

    Bottom line - use a small SD card. This isn't music playback. ;-)

    All the Best, PuterPro
    Are parts available for it? I would like a spare nozzle and nozzle guides.
    A shopper on Dec 2, 2016
    BEST ANSWER: Yes there are nozzles available form many third party resellers. This unit uses the same parts as a Prusa i3. I bought the all-metal hotend upgrade from Micro Swiss and am very happy with the upgrade. This is a great first printer.
    Can the included version of Cura print out supports if the support does not go all the way down to the base plate. For instance think of a handle on a basket? I can't get it to print the supports and the handle sags.
    Michael C on Feb 4, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: When choosing your support structure parameters, you must select "Everywhere" when choosing your support placement. If you leave it at "Touching Buildplate" you will only get support for overhangs that are hanging over the build plate.
    Is there a software that you can print from Apple OS X? Is this printer even compatible with OS X?
    Tim O on Feb 20, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: This printer prints from a microSD card. You can connect it to a computer, but it's completely unnecessary and I have never done it.
    is it possible to add a z axis probe for auto bed leveling to the maker select v2 plus?
    New User U on Apr 25, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: yes, there are other sites that have instructions in how to do so, just search for Wanhou duplicator mods and you'll find your answer.
    My maker select v2 was printing fine at first, but now the hot end heats up VERY slowly. It only heats up a degree in a few minutes. Any ideas of what this might be?
    A shopper on Apr 23, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: I found that immediately after turning the unit on, going to Quick Settings and choosing Preheat PLA gets the unit up to temp faster than waiting for it during a print job start. I'm not positive, but I believe the curve may be shorter for the preheat than for the regular heat. I find it is also helpful to do this before changing out the filament colors. I raise the Z height of the extruder, start the preheat, wait until the temp gets to 200 and then advance the filament which forces out the remaining bit of previous filament color. If you don't mind wasting a small bit of filament, I also have a small block object I print to ensure the extruder is clear of the previous color. I print it before printing my next object.
    Is this printer compatible with Autodesk Inventor?
    A shopper on Apr 9, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: I use it with Autodesk Fusion 360. Inventor is in the same product line, so I would imagine it works perfectly. I print from Fusion 360 to Cura and then Cura to the printer.
    What settings to I use in Cura for this printer? Thanks!
    Nicholas A on Apr 9, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Layer height 0.20, Shell thickness 0.80, Enable Traction Yes, Bottom/top Thickness 1.2, Fill density% 30, Print Speed 40, Print Temp 210, Bed temp 50, Filament diameter 1.75, Flow 100%, Nozzle size 0.4
    Has anyone had issues with USB printing? I got it to work the 2-3 times on my MacBook Pro but now my Mac is saying it's not recognizing/connecting to the MSv2. I have tried 2 different cables but had no success. Tried both Cura & Simplify3D. Are there special drivers for these things beyond the profiles in the slicer?
    Jake A on Apr 5, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Might be a grounding problem, or you might need to have MONOPRICE replace it. I use USB on mine all the time.
    Can I use 123D Design with this printer? What file formats are needed, obj or stl?
    A shopper on Mar 22, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: You'll need to export to STL (preferably) or OBJ and import them into the included Monoprice Edition of Cura slicer. You can also use the regular version of Cura, Slic3r, or if you've got the funds, Simplify3D. Other slicer software might work too. Once in your slicer of choice, export your gCode onto the included SD card and print from it from the printer screen's menu.
    my sd card does not read, I cannot access it at all?
    A shopper on Mar 20, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Check to see if the SD card is mounted. The card will automatically mount if the SD card is in the slot before powering the machine on. When inserting the card after powering the machine on, check the SD Card selection from the menu and mount the card. I am assuming that you placed a gcode file on the card from your computer.
    what hot end does it come with?
    A shopper on Feb 22, 2017
    BEST ANSWER: Brass MK10 and some plastic tubing. It's not alimetal. I strongly suggest an All Metal Upgrade. Best $40 you can spend on this!
    4.4 / 5.0
    192 Reviews
    5 Stars
    4 Stars
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    116
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    Could it be the best printer for the money?
    Before I purchased this printer, I researched them for a long time trying to find the best one. I didn't have a large budget, but I wanted the most from my investment. I literally spent days trying to decide between a i3 kit or something more plug and play. Being a beginner to the hobby, but not shy of tinkering, I wasn't sure where I should begin. So, I had decided on a i3 kit and then see that Monoprice had released two new 3d printer models. I instantly recognized the Maker Select printer as a rebranded Wanhao i3 and I was sold. These printers have very good reputations and I felt very confident that support from Monoprice would not disappoint me.



    The printer came packaged very well and included everything needed to get started. I only had a couple of hours on the first day to spend setting it up, and I fully expected to have to do some troubleshooting. After getting everything unboxed and on my desk I followed the printed sheet of instructions included in the box. The instructions were very clear, however setup issues still came up and I had to work through those.



    First, I had trouble loading the filament into the extruder. No matter how much I tried to force it in, it just wouldn't feed. I then read online that it's easier to cut the end off at an angle and that will make it easier to feed. And sure enough, as soon as I had a bit of an angle on the end, the extruder was able to grab the filament. This step would be really helpful if it were included in the documentation.



    Next, I had a small issue with my Z axis not being level. This was my fault and a result of me manually moving it after getting it setup, it is entirely possible that it came level from the factory. Getting the Z axis back to level was a little tricky as I couldn't very well get a carpenters level on it, but a plain old ruler did the trick.



    Once the Z axis was straightened out, I set to leveling the bed. I took great care to level it and my investment was rewarded. It's vitally important to make sure that only one piece of printer paper can fit under the extruder. Using two pieces of printer paper, I moved the nozzle around the bed about two inches inside of each corner and slid one piece under the nozzle, continuing to make fine adjustments until the second sheet wouldn't fit any more. After completing my first pass, I made a second pass to true everything up and make sure it was level.



    Once everything was level, I loaded up my first test model from the included SD card and was printing. It took two hours, but I had my first print and the quality looked very good compared to other examples I'd seen on the internet.



    Even though I had, what I feel, is a good first experience. I do have a couple of small complaints about the product listing. And since this is a new product launch for Monoprice, they aren't unexpected either. First, my printer included a 2GB SD card when the product listing claimed 4GB. Also, there is no longer a link to the product documentation on the product page. It was there the first day, but got removed when the listing was updated. This needs to be added back, it was tremendously valuable to me.



    I highly recommend this printer to anyone interested in getting into the hobby, just don't expect it work like an ink jet and don't get discouraged when small problems come up.

    PROS: Strong build quality.

    Open source design.

    Support for multiple filaments.

    Heated bed.

    Stand alone operation.

    Very good print quality.

    CONS: 2GB SD card included, not the advertised 4GB.

    Missing full product documentation link on listing.
    November 5, 2015
    Unbeatable value, but be prepared to tinker
    This is the perfect 3D printer for someone with more time and energy than money. Assembly was easy and well documented, and the prints looked decent off the bat, but once you start printing more complicated or larger parts, some issues will make themselves apparent. Luckily, since this is essentially a Wanhao Duplicator i3, there are lots of parts on Thingiverse ready for you to print and fix the machine's quirks yourself.

    PROS: -Price
    -Nearly preassembled
    -Decent out of the box performance on PLA
    -Common design = easy to mod
    -The 0.5mm nozzle helps with print speed and reduces the chance of an extruder jam.
    -Comes with almost every tool you need to use and maintain the machine.
    -Did I mention price?

    CONS: -The PTFE thermal barrier tube degrades faster at higher temperatures, so ABS will degrade it over time and anything requiring higher temperatures is pretty much out. It also limits print speed (I top out at about 50mm/s for PLA). Fortunately, there is a spare, and bulk tubing is cheap. Micro Swiss also manufactures a compatible all-metal hotend for if you want to try higher temperature materials.
    -The cooling fan isn't even aimed in the right direction, and it's underpowered. At the very least, you should immediately rotate the shroud to aim at the nozzle, and you should consider printing a new fan shroud ASAP. Switching to a better fan is also beneficial.
    -Leveling the bed is a pain. The wingnuts are difficult to reach and turn, and they can loosen from the movement of the bed. I highly recommend printing a set of one of the many compatible thumbwheel parts on thingiverse as well as the spring holders to make leveling the bed a rare occurrence rather than a common chore.
    -The default 0.5mm nozzle can't print with as much detail as the more common .4mm or .35mm sizes, and it also limits the minimum wall size.
    -Make sure to have a good set of needle nose pliers for the inevitable jam. I've only jammed it when I did something wrong (bed too high or improper unloading), but you'll want to be able to take apart just in case.
    -Again, it bears mentioning that this thing is best when it prints slowly. Expect parts to take at least half again as long as on some other 3D printers.
    May 4, 2016
    It's an Adventure!
    This is my second 3D printer from Monoprice. I was pleased to see several modifications have been made to it based on user feedback, like the leveling screws, the way the head no longer rubs against the z-axis belt, and the ground fix on the Melzi board.
    From box to desk was about half an hour. First print was an hour after that (take the time to level that bed). Then three days of adventuring began.
    I had little issues with bed adherence and layer bonding. Some of the issues are with the Prusa I3 profile in the current release of Cura, and some were because the printer was in a cold, drafty room.
    Do listen to this guy on setting up the printer in Cura: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDXo2GBmbtU
    Do go to Thingiverse and make this for the bed heater cable:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1641044
    And this for the filament feed:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1598317
    And build an enclosure for the printer, like its own little hothouse. I built mine from PVC pipes, 3 way couplers, and vinyl sheeting for about $25.
    Then it will start printing like a champ.
    It is a very nice printer, and you can't beat the price. You just have to perform some very simple, non-warranty-voiding mods to it.
    And you'll know more about 3D printing than when you started.
    November 28, 2016
    Maker Select 3D Printer
    Out of the box I had this thing up and printing in a total of 20 mins (software slowed me down and needed to find my MicroSD to USB adapter).



    1st print went well aside from an issue that was my fault (take your time leveling the bed or you lose hours of printing to odd shaped parts). After that short of taking every inch of it apart I spent nearly 24 man hours looking into why ever following print I attempted failed...



    It is the SD card... Toss it out buy a name brand one... on bad print worth of PLA or ABS saved will likely cover the cost. Do not be me and lose an entire roll and a half of filament bc you are stubborn and refuse to believe an SD card could take down an entire machine... its a real thing.



    Also if you are handy at all look up Vernon Barry on YouTube, he goes by JetGuy. Do pretty much every MOD he shows and also put heat defection tape or a heat shield between the heater wires and filament feed.



    In the end does it need way more MODs and setup than just 4 -6 screws... thats a huge yes... but there are only 2 ways to get an awesome printer... spend 2x the money or spend some time with this diamond in the rough and about 15- 50 dollars in supplies (depending on how stocked your junk drawer is)



    I'd Buy It Again... and maybe 1 more time lol

    PROS: Works great after you fix it, fast assembly out of the box, print quality way better than a $350 printer should

    CONS: Heat wires had to be rerouted to prevent filament from warping, The SD CARD IT COMES WITH GOES INTO THE TRASH, The SD CARD CORRUPTS FILES AND FAILS PRINTS, Did i mention THE SD CARD WRECKS EVERYTHING so THROW IT AWAY
    November 28, 2015
    made well, but if one part fails you have to send it all back.
    The only real problem here is the customer (me)is not allowed to take the failed part out and check the connections to the power supply or see if the power supply itself had failed. If I could have done either of those things I could have maybe just sent the power supply back to the company instead of having to break down the whole machine and box it up , take it to UPS and wait for a new one. This whole process is a real pain in the ass and I am lucky I had a chance to talk to a understanding tech like Eon. great product, just needs to be made modular.

    PROS: easy assembly.

    CONS: should be made in separate pieces .pain in the ass to box up and send back.
    October 12, 2016
    Quite a bit better than the "entry level" price
    This was my first 3D printer - I had held off for a few years due to reading about a variety of problems with other printers and being underwhelmed with the quality of the prints I'd seen as examples. I was also quite skeptical that a $350 printer could possibly produce anything reasonable.

    I've successfully printed with PLA (which worked out of the box and has always been relatively easy), ABS (which was a little trickier and appears to always be the case with 3D printers) and T-Glase as well as Nylon variants. This printer is great in that it handles pretty much every kind of filament available. This also makes it economical to operate. Filament choice adds a ton of flexibility and gives you opportunities to print things with the right combinations of flex, brittleness, and strength for whatever job you're doing.

    If you haven't owned a 3D printer before, here's some things that surprised me: The print quality can be absolutely *amazing* if you're willing to wait. Postprocessing can be done with nearly every kind of filament to make the edges smooth and give the appearance of injection molding. About the only thing you can't do is make a perfectly transparent part (but you can get very close with T-Glase and an the right epoxy coating).

    I've run this thing *non-stop* since I purchased it. Other than the hiccoughs that I ran into with the Y-Carriage, it's performed brilliantly without any part failures or wear. And the printer is a very simple construction - if something fails, you can find parts easily and inexpensively and many repairs can just be printed.

    I've used this to print most of the parts to a RepRap tricolor that I'm building and the parts came out perfectly (with the addition of a 0.3mm all metal print head required for a couple of the parts - $14 for the head and $37 for the MK10 all metal kit which included a 0.4mm nozzle - since this comes with a 0.5mm nozzle and it's easy to swap out these parts, that gave me a little more versatility ... T-Glase prints best on large nozzles, detailed parts need smaller to produce the best results).

    PROS: It's very nearly there out of the box - by "there", I mean, prints of a quality you might expect to pay more than twice as much for.

    There's a huge community behind this printer and it generally gets very good reviews everywhere.

    Very easily hacked/modified.

    Supports a wide range of filaments and is deeply configurable to cover corner cases you *will* run into.

    Uses .gcode and nearly every software application that slices works out of the box for PLA by selecting Prusia i3 and (sometimes) modifying the nozzle head to 0.5mm.

    Incredible price *doesn't* leave you with a nice, cheap, 3D printer that's entry level causing you to long for something better.

    CONS: You need to be willing to hack a bit to do any 3D printing on any 3D printer. This is no exception. The good news is that this printer has a massive following being based on the Wanhao Duplicator i3. I received the "v2" model of this printer (which has the LCD panel slightly tilted instead of at a 90 degree angle which is an improvement).

    You'll want to print the Z-Brackets (Search thingiverse). I also had to purchase a new Y-Carriage mount because the part that the bed screws into is really flimsy and made it very difficult to get a consistent bed level (or to get it to level at all after a few weeks because it bends so easily). Not to worry, they're $20 on Amazon - Get an anodized aluminum one, add some lock nuts to the M3 screws on the bed and print the thumb screw heads and add some lock-nuts to replace the thumb screws and this printer is simply, without a doubt ... *amazing*.
    May 15, 2016
    Problem with the printer, slow support
    I received this printer on a Friday afternoon and assembled it Saturday morning. When I powered it on thick smoke came from the control box. I powered it off and contacted support through email. I did not receive a reply from Monoprice until the following Thursday afternoon. In the meantime, I repaired the printer myself one of the capacitors in the power supply had ruptured. Since the repair the printer has been performing very well, but I was disappointed in the initial failure and the slow response from Monoprice.

    PROS: It is a great printer if it works.

    CONS: There may be a problem with initial reliability.
    September 25, 2016
    Great for the money... when it works.
    Sad to report that my third such printer has now died. The first went via a sudden burning electronics smell from the control box and would not print (just wouldn't move). It quit early on 2 prints, slightly more each time, then done. Saw limited use. Done done.

    First replacement dead after test print, or before, the heated bed would not heat.

    Second replacement (arrived mid September), died late December, died in fashion identical to the first one. It had sat for about 6 weeks, also, and was used sparingly when used. Sigh.

    But when it did print I was very happy with the results. Not top of the line, but certainly nice for the price. I can't recommend it though based on my experience.
    December 30, 2016
    Outstanding 1st 3D printer - great value
    First - understand that getting into 3D printing is not just about installing a new piece of hardware on your computer. Plan to invest some time and a few $ in research and improvements.
    Second - why is this a great printer? It is cheap, versatile, and offers everything one needs to learn the "art" of 3D printing. If you enjoy tinkering - the possibilities with this printer are endless.
    Third - for those having problems removing the filament, I found that heating up the nozzle, pushing down the release level while pushing filament down into the heated nozzle about 1-2cm (yes it will squirt filament out while doing this), and then quickly pulling it out allows you to remove it. If it doesn't come out, push some more down and try it again. It appears the filament expands while feeding into the nozzle while doesn't allow it to pull back out. Manually pushing the filament down into the nozzle melts this expanded portion which will fit back through the feed portion once it gets warm enough.

    MOD Recommendations: Research the mods online. Vernon Barry - Jet Guy on Youtube has been mentioned before - a great resource for learning the parts of the printer and where to apply some upgrades. Search WANHAO on thingiverse for a huge list of upgrades and mods. As mentioned, and as you will find, this is a PRUSA I3 or WANHAO I3.: Platform thumb screws with some nuts below the heated plate and new self-locking nuts in the bottom are a great upgrade to help keep the build plate level. A MUST. That and do a JET GUY blue-printing z-axis alignment. Then you are pretty much set. Z axis dampers are already installed - not required! You may want to build some z-stop offset blocks, you will have to move the z-stop if you install a glass plate, however there are two sets of tapped holes in the bracket to move the z-stop up without a new bracket.

    PRINTING:
    PLA is easiest to use.
    ABS is tricky and took some time to get good results. Cooling causes ends to curl and peel up from the build plate which ruins the print once it becomes "unstuck." I added a glass build plate with PEI, but have had better results with blue painters tape directly on the metal build plate covered with glue-stick. Used 105C platform temp, fan off. For even better results, add a brim and use blue painters tape over the brim once its complete and as the part starts printing.
    CURA is free, simple and works well. I invested $150 in simplify3D, but so far it's well beyond what is required to get this running. Download a STL file (3d Model) from thingiverse, load it in CURA, use quick print settings to set ABS or PLA defaults, then switch to EXPERT to tweak the settings. Don't get overwhelmed by the adjustments, I started with build plate temps, nozzle temps, and supports. RAFT works well for a smooth bottom, BRIM as I mentioned, works well for keeping the print stuck to the plate. Then save the GCODE file, copy it to an SD card, and stick it in the printer to start printing. I haven't tried and see no reason to tie up your computer with a USB cable for 3 hours or more to print directly from CURA. Additionally, you can tweak platform temps and other settings from the control panel while warming up/printing if you didn't get them set just right in CURA before generating the GCODE.


    PROS: Did I mention the price?
    Heated bed
    Versatile
    great way to learn how to start printing, and will last a long time
    LOTS of available internet documentation and support.
    widely compatible with multiple slicer software.
    You can completely disassemble, re-assemble as required - all open source hardware/software

    CONS: Single extruder (vice dual), but for a good starter printer, my sense is dual extruders get well into the more advanced level and really aren't necessary when you are first learning.
    February 10, 2016
    A great starting point, printed well out of the box
    For the $350 sale price that I bought this at, it's a bargain. It's one of the most affordable Reprap Prusa I3s out there. The metal construction of the frame gives the entire thing a feeling of solidity that I didn't find in a 3d printed Mendel that I had built previously. Let's run through the high points:



    Assembly was a breeze. The printer came well packaged and protected. 4 screws are all that's needed to attach the frame to the base. From there you're setting up the bed with the tape and then making adjustments for the extruder height. All very easy.



    The quick start guide was to the point and doesn't offer much in the way advanced instruction, so be aware that there's a full downloadable manual. Additionally, the quick start guide doesn't mention that there's some black electrical tape on the axis stops. It's easy to miss these as it blends in with the frame, particularly if you don't have a good light source.



    The electronics seems to be pretty good, though I've only had it printing for about 48 hours over the past week and a half - so I can't speak to their longevity. They're reasonably accessible in the case that can be disassembled. I would have liked to have seen the electronics come with connectors so that the frame can be completely detached from the electronics case. Otherwise it's nearly a two person job to move the whole thing from your assembly area to it's more permanent home.



    The SD card comes preloaded with a couple small models to start printing with. My first print was the butterfly logo that was on there and I was very impressed with it. The sides were perfectly smooth - though this may be because I had the extruder much too close to the bed. Getting that height correct is necessary to keep the filament from bonding with the tape (even with a raft!). That mangled one of the only 2 sheets of tape included. I'll be looking into a more permanent solution like a glass topper or some other film. The tape just isn't a long term option.



    My second and third prints were cases for a HeaterMeter and Ergodox keyboards. I think they came out quite well. It's worth noting that I've only tried printing with some Hatchbox PLA, I haven't yet tried ABS or any other plastics.



    For software, the SD card came preloaded with a pre-configured version of Cura dedicated to the "IIIP." I hadn't realized that and downloaded and configured the current version of Cura and have been running my prints with that. The SD card's software seems configured for higher resolution printing and results in drastically longer prints as compared to what I downloaded and configured. Unless I'm printing a showpiece, I'm going to stick to a bit of a lower resolution for the time benefits. That's totally in your control, though.



    Control is a big thing in 3d printing. We're working with open source designs, customizing our own models, sharing them through various repositories, and tinkering with our printers. I have no illusions that the electronics and mechanical end stops are not necessarily the pinnacle of 3d printing advancement, and that's perfectly OK! This printer functions extremely well for it's price point and I'm thrilled to have picked it up. There's plenty of room on this for future upgrades and enhancements - and that's why I noted in the title that this is a great starting point. It's going to last awhile and along the way you'll probably upgrade the bed, and maybe add some optical stops etc etc..



    All told, for someone getting into the hobby, this is a great starting point. It gets you from zero to printing in an hour. The print quality is really really good and there's very little fussing over the calibration. The barrier to entry is really pretty low here and there hasn't been a better time to get into it.

    PROS: Quick and easy assembly. Frame feels very sturdy. Goes from box to printing in under an hour.

    CONS: Fan already screeching like a banshee - already had to buy a replacement. Electronics box is very heavy and it being unable to completely detach the wiring it is quite cumbersome to move.
    November 29, 2015

    In Stock This item should ship today (6/26/2017) if ordered within 8 hours 53 minutes
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