Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2, White
Product # 15365
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Questions and Answers
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I tore the yellow paper coating on the printing pad how can I repair it?
New User U
on Dec 25, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I replaced the masking tape with blue painter's tape from 3M. I had to lower the bed, 3/4 turn of the wrench counter-clockwise on all 4 corners to accommodate the thicker tape. I like painter's tape because it is less prone to tearing, and it is a rougher surface, so the print seems to pry off easier after it cools.
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- Adam B on Jan 29, 2017
- Purchased on Jan 13, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I replaced the masking tape with blue painter's tape from 3M. I had to lower the bed, 3/4 turn of the wrench counter-clockwise on all 4 corners to accommodate the thicker tape. I like painter's tape because it is less prone to tearing, and it is a rougher surface, so the print seems to pry off easier after it cools.
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- Adam B on Jan 29, 2017
- Purchased on Jan 13, 2017
You have several choices. This printer is suitable for both ABS and PLA, so your choice depends mainly on what you print. 3M blue painter tape is popular for PLA. I used a piece of BuildTak cut to size because I mainly print ABS. PEI is also an option.
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- Michael M on Dec 26, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 14, 2016
This tape on the printer bed is the same tape used in the vinyl graphic industry for masking vinyl. Using blue painters tape for the print bed is fine, just use rubbing alcohol on the waxed surface to make the filament stick to the print bed as its printing
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- Jon P on Dec 25, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 15, 2016
I think it's just to protect the aluminum during shipping. I pulled it off and printed on wide masking tape stuck over the platform. After graduating from tape I bought PEI plastic sheets, stuck it to the aluminum and use that as the print surface.
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- Mr. C on Dec 25, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 13, 2016
The “best answer” would be even better if the direction to turn the screws was correct. Check the User’s Manual. To compensate for thicker tape by lowering the bed, you need to turn the screws CLOCKWISE.
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- Michael B on Apr 16, 2020
- Purchased on Mar 13, 2020
I removed the original covering on the print bed and used blue painters tape to replace it. But the edges side by side so it is all one level. Make sure to level the bed before continuing.
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- Lisa A on Dec 27, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 15, 2016
Its just masking tape. Buy a roll of quality masking tape and resurface the surface. Be careful you get the tape down very smooth
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- Timothy H on Dec 26, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 14, 2016
Replace with painters tape. Wipe down with isopropyl alcohol between prints.
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- Chris on Dec 25, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 14, 2016
Replace with masking tape or blue painters tape. The wider the better.
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- Greg W on Dec 25, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 14, 2016
Replace the table tape with blue Painters tape ... it works better.
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- Walt P on Jan 7, 2017
- Purchased on Nov 1, 2016
Done people use painters tape. I recommend BuildTak.
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- Patrick Z on Dec 26, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 15, 2016
Blue painters tape
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- Erik B on Dec 25, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 14, 2016
I've used blue painter's tape and before printing I inspect it for replacement.
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- New User U on Aug 14, 2017
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Only the cat.gcode works and prints right. Why aren't any my other models working, even though they are all from thingiverse?
A shopper
on Dec 27, 2016
BEST ANSWER: The sheer number of settings are probably where your problem comes from.
For a starting point, load a simple STL file from Thingiverse into Cura, and then from the "File" menu, select "Load Profile from GCode" and point it at the cat.gcode file.
For a starting point, load a simple STL file from Thingiverse into Cura, and then from the "File" menu, select "Load Profile from GCode" and point it at the cat.gcode file.
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- Brian C on Dec 27, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 21, 2016
BEST ANSWER: The sheer number of settings are probably where your problem comes from.
For a starting point, load a simple STL file from Thingiverse into Cura, and then from the "File" menu, select "Load Profile from GCode" and point it at the cat.gcode file.
For a starting point, load a simple STL file from Thingiverse into Cura, and then from the "File" menu, select "Load Profile from GCode" and point it at the cat.gcode file.
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- Brian C on Dec 27, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 21, 2016
If cat.gcode works, then your printer is working fine. At that point, any problem you have with printing other items will have to do with the way those items are sliced, i.e., your slicer settings. And the optimum slicer settings may depend on the particular item being printed. I think most, if not all of us had rough starts in the beginning like you are experiencing. But once you get a sense of how the slicer settings affect printing and also a sense of the capabilities of your printer, most reasonable prints will print just fine. That being said, there are limitations to any printer, and some items from thingiverse may simply be unsuitable for this printer, for example overly complex or badly designed shapes with unreasonable support requirements, very fine supports, etc.) Don't give up! The MP Select Mini is a fine and capable printer for the price!
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- Michael S on Dec 27, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 21, 2016
gcode are the commands to the firmware of the printer. Models or .stl files have not yet been "sliced" into gcode. Your slicer needs to be configured for the printer. There is an awesome community to be found on Facebook, "MP Select Mini Owners". As an aside, you don't describe what is not "working". There are tons of problems that can occur printing. The community also has a list of preventative models you should print first, as well as enhancements. You will find slicer configuration files for Cura and Slic3r and others. Personally, I like Octoprint Pi with its built-in Cura and web interface.
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- Frederick B on Dec 27, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 24, 2016
You will have to set up all the settings . The layer density ect.... I have been trying to set mine up to print in wax, and it ain't easy. Keep trying and keep changing the variables until you get it right
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- robert f on Dec 27, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 24, 2016
I've been using CURA 2.3.0 mostly. I selected the RigidBot machine and only use the forward left quarter of that table in CURA. It prints really well on those settings.
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- Walt P on Jan 7, 2017
- Purchased on Nov 1, 2016
You will need to run the.stl files from thingiverse through a slicing program like cura. This will generate the .gcode toolpaths for the printer.
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- Bryan A on Dec 27, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 22, 2016
It still doesn't work. The problem is that it starts printing, but the filament doesn't go onto the platform, except when I do the cat.gcode
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- New User U on Dec 27, 2016
Use the free program CURA to open the stl file, allow CURA to process the file and then save it to your microsd. It should save as a gcode file.
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- Stephen F on Dec 27, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 22, 2016
Scale the model down to a smaller size
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- daniel s on Dec 27, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 22, 2016
Vote for the best answer above!
Any tricks for better adhesion of pla to build plate?
A shopper
on Dec 7, 2018
BEST ANSWER: I didn’t have any issues with PLA sticking on the factory build plate material with 40-60° but have since peeled that off and use polidimide with glue stick. I clean it off with rubbing alcohol and a gentle scotchbrite pad after each print and reapply glue.
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- Alex S on Dec 8, 2018
- Purchased on Jan 22, 2018
BEST ANSWER: I didn’t have any issues with PLA sticking on the factory build plate material with 40-60° but have since peeled that off and use polidimide with glue stick. I clean it off with rubbing alcohol and a gentle scotchbrite pad after each print and reapply glue.
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- Alex S on Dec 8, 2018
- Purchased on Jan 22, 2018
You can use hair spray. Try a very little amount, then adjust if needed. I'd also like to suggest to cover the steel rods where the head glides. Hair spray dries tacky, leaving over spray on rods can affect it's performance over time.
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- dueno d on Dec 7, 2018
- Purchased on Feb 28, 2018
Put glass on the bed and then use a glue stick. Also make sure it's level. If you don't use glass put painters tape and glue stick on top of it.
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- Michael L on Dec 7, 2018
- Purchased on Feb 23, 2018
A light coat of Aqua Net hair spray. Let it dry, then start printing.
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- BobB on Dec 8, 2018
- Purchased on Feb 23, 2018
I use blue painter's tape. 1.5", three strips of it cover the plate.
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- Dan S on Dec 8, 2018
- Purchased on Feb 25, 2018
Clean build plate with acetone
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- Bronislav W on Dec 7, 2018
- Purchased on Feb 26, 2018
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We cant get the filament to lay on the bed. What can we do?
A shopper
on Jan 2, 2017
BEST ANSWER: You don't say what kind of filament, temperature of hotend or bed. Regardless of type, first put down some blue painter's tape. I don't much like the tape the MP Select comes with. When the first layer is being printed, ideally the extruded plastic will be somewhat flattened. If it's just a round tube lying on the print bed then you need to raise the bed a little by adjusting the screws in the corners.
Ideally, calibrate the bed by homing the printer, then remove power and adjust the bed screws until you can just slide a piece of paper under the head in all parts of the bed (move the head left and right and the bed front to back) - the paper should drag a little on the head. Make sure there's not a cooled off plastic booger hanging off the nozzle when you adjust it or you'll be way too high. Heat up the nozzle and wipe it off if you have to.
For PLA, for beginners I would print on blue painter's tape, set the bed temperature at 55, and start with the hotend at 190. Actually you can print with the bed cold for the most part, but a little heat doesn't hurt.
Ideally, calibrate the bed by homing the printer, then remove power and adjust the bed screws until you can just slide a piece of paper under the head in all parts of the bed (move the head left and right and the bed front to back) - the paper should drag a little on the head. Make sure there's not a cooled off plastic booger hanging off the nozzle when you adjust it or you'll be way too high. Heat up the nozzle and wipe it off if you have to.
For PLA, for beginners I would print on blue painter's tape, set the bed temperature at 55, and start with the hotend at 190. Actually you can print with the bed cold for the most part, but a little heat doesn't hurt.
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- John R on Jan 2, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 23, 2016
BEST ANSWER: You don't say what kind of filament, temperature of hotend or bed. Regardless of type, first put down some blue painter's tape. I don't much like the tape the MP Select comes with. When the first layer is being printed, ideally the extruded plastic will be somewhat flattened. If it's just a round tube lying on the print bed then you need to raise the bed a little by adjusting the screws in the corners.
Ideally, calibrate the bed by homing the printer, then remove power and adjust the bed screws until you can just slide a piece of paper under the head in all parts of the bed (move the head left and right and the bed front to back) - the paper should drag a little on the head. Make sure there's not a cooled off plastic booger hanging off the nozzle when you adjust it or you'll be way too high. Heat up the nozzle and wipe it off if you have to.
For PLA, for beginners I would print on blue painter's tape, set the bed temperature at 55, and start with the hotend at 190. Actually you can print with the bed cold for the most part, but a little heat doesn't hurt.
Ideally, calibrate the bed by homing the printer, then remove power and adjust the bed screws until you can just slide a piece of paper under the head in all parts of the bed (move the head left and right and the bed front to back) - the paper should drag a little on the head. Make sure there's not a cooled off plastic booger hanging off the nozzle when you adjust it or you'll be way too high. Heat up the nozzle and wipe it off if you have to.
For PLA, for beginners I would print on blue painter's tape, set the bed temperature at 55, and start with the hotend at 190. Actually you can print with the bed cold for the most part, but a little heat doesn't hurt.
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- Inaccurate
- John R on Jan 2, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 23, 2016
You should try and make sure that the extruder is extruding plastic out of it, raise it to the top and extrude some plastic. If that works then you should try and fix the bed calibration, since this printer is not autocalibrating, you need to set the bed level yourself. Start a print up, and when it starts to print and is at the right height turn it off. Then move the bed to each corner and use a sheet of paper and tigthen/loosen the screws with the supplied hex wrench until the bed paper is moving freely then move until you feel that the nozzle is catching a little, then loosen back the screw at 1/4 turn, that should get the nozzle height set perfectly, try and see if that works. If not plastic is still coming out, or you hear the extruder motor skipping steps, then you should lower the bed a little bit, the nozzle is still too close. Hope that helps :D
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- Roger b on Jan 2, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 23, 2016
Make sure the bed is totally level. Home all, preheat the extruder and bed to the temperature you plan to print at. Make sure that you remove the filament from the extruder, so it doesn't leak through, and give you a false measurement. Use a single sheet of paper, cut into a 1 inch (25mm) wide strip, and manually move the extruder and bed so the extruder is about 25mm from a corner. Slide the paper between the nozzle and the bed, adjusting the corner screw up or down, until the paper just starts to drag. Repeat this at each corner of the bed twice, using a criss-cross pattern. Finally, put the extruder in the center of the bed, and verify the paper can slide between with a slight drag. Home all, and wipe down the bed with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Load your filament, and you should be in business.
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- Randall M on Jan 2, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 22, 2016
In almost all cases when you can't get filament to stick it's because your bed level is not quite right.
Home the hot end and use printer paper to check that the height is correct. You should be able to stick one piece of paper between bed and nozzle with a very slight drag for pla or abs. For petg use three thicknesses of paper with a tight fit.
Move the hot end to the other three corners as well and check them in the same way. Adjust the leveling screws if you have trouble.
Just before printing wipe off the bed with isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel.
Home the hot end and use printer paper to check that the height is correct. You should be able to stick one piece of paper between bed and nozzle with a very slight drag for pla or abs. For petg use three thicknesses of paper with a tight fit.
Move the hot end to the other three corners as well and check them in the same way. Adjust the leveling screws if you have trouble.
Just before printing wipe off the bed with isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel.
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- GEORGE P on Jan 3, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 30, 2016
If you are using PLA, apply masking tape to the bed, and increase the temp of the nozzle by 5C or so. If it is ABS, then you need to heat the bed as high as it will go and the nozzle to 230 and use tape as well.
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- David T on Jan 2, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 30, 2016
3M blue painters tape.. get the name brand.. light coating of hairspray.
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- Jason C on Jan 2, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 30, 2016
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Any chance of increasing the bed temperature to 100C? I print almost exclusively with ABS, and this printer would be perfect for my smaller parts with that option. 60C is just not high enough for reliable ABS prints.
A shopper
on Dec 4, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I would suggest PETG as an alternative. Many of the high strength/temperature benefits of ABS without alot of the finicky behavior.
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- Chris A Staff on Dec 13, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I would suggest PETG as an alternative. Many of the high strength/temperature benefits of ABS without alot of the finicky behavior.
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- Chris A Staff on Dec 13, 2016
The built in controls top out at 60, but if you're running something like Octoprint or controlling it with a PC, you can set the bed higher. That said, I'm not sure you could get it to 100C without a lot of patience. I powered mine up and set it to 100C and after around 85C it really starts to struggle to get any warmer. After fifteen minutes of heating it's still not quite 90C
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- Joseph L on Dec 5, 2016
- Purchased on May 27, 2016
There are mods for it. I can't post a link, but there is a post on Hackaday about how to get the bed up to 110C.
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- Brett D on Dec 12, 2016
- Purchased on Oct 26, 2016
When you select ABS in CURA it should have the temperature setting in the GCode for the printer to use.
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- Walt P on Dec 23, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 1, 2016
You would need to a different bed. Maybe something with an external controller?
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- Gregory W on Dec 6, 2016
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Is there g-code to switch the cooling fan off? I often start printing in the evening and leave the printer over night to do it's job. Is there any way (gcode maybe?) to switch the cooling fan off (this one on the extruder)? I mean, printing takes like 3-4 hours and the fan is on for few more hours without any need until I switch it off in the morning.
Greeting from Poland!
Pokush
Greeting from Poland!
Pokush
New User U
on Dec 6, 2016
BEST ANSWER: This is the End G-code I use, can't remember where I copied it from but it works well:
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M106 S1 ; turn off fan
G28 X ; home x axis
G1 Y120 ; move platform forward for access
M84 ; disable motor
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M106 S1 ; turn off fan
G28 X ; home x axis
G1 Y120 ; move platform forward for access
M84 ; disable motor
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- Slava L on Dec 9, 2016
- Purchased on May 29, 2016
BEST ANSWER: This is the End G-code I use, can't remember where I copied it from but it works well:
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M106 S1 ; turn off fan
G28 X ; home x axis
G1 Y120 ; move platform forward for access
M84 ; disable motor
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M106 S1 ; turn off fan
G28 X ; home x axis
G1 Y120 ; move platform forward for access
M84 ; disable motor
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- Slava L on Dec 9, 2016
- Purchased on May 29, 2016
I have not tried this myself, but you can try the G Codes on ThingiVerse Cheat Sheet (this form will not let me link to another site -- but if you search for "thingiverse G Code Cheat Sheet" it'll be first on Google)
M106 S0
or
M107
M106 S0
or
M107
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- Isaiah C on Dec 7, 2016
- Purchased on May 30, 2016
No. the mini uses a single fan to cool the heat exchange and to blow on the print. You can search on Thingiverse for a fan duct that covers the air flow to the print
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- Richard C on Dec 7, 2016
- Purchased on May 29, 2016
You want to be very careful about switching the fan OFF. If the hot end is still too hot and the fan turns OFF you can damage the hot end non-functional.
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- Walt P on Jan 7, 2017
- Purchased on Nov 1, 2016
I believe the code is E13 to turn off the fan.
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- David G on Dec 7, 2016
- Purchased on Jun 1, 2016
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Can this printer be used in a Linux environment?
A shopper
on Mar 8, 2017
BEST ANSWER: In SD card mode, this printer can be used in any environment that supports writing to an SD card.
In Serial mode, If your printer control software supports writing to a serial port in Linux, it works there too.
In Serial mode, If your printer control software supports writing to a serial port in Linux, it works there too.
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- Elizabeth on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 29, 2016
BEST ANSWER: In SD card mode, this printer can be used in any environment that supports writing to an SD card.
In Serial mode, If your printer control software supports writing to a serial port in Linux, it works there too.
In Serial mode, If your printer control software supports writing to a serial port in Linux, it works there too.
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- Elizabeth on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 29, 2016
Works fine connected to an Ubuntu 16.04 laptop, running the Linux version of Cura. I'm sure other configurations would work as well, but I haven't tested any yet.
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- Michael M on Mar 8, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 30, 2016
The printer is stand alone. Only the print processing software (slicer) you use must be compatible with your operating system.
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- Glen M on Mar 8, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 28, 2016
I'm using Debian. Downloaded Cura for Linux to prepare files and currently I'm using the SD card to print.
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- New User U on Aug 14, 2017
Yes.
Currently using it under Funtoo
Currently using it under Funtoo
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- Michael K on Mar 8, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 31, 2016
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can i upload files from autodesk inventor and print them from cura?
A shopper
on Mar 9, 2017
BEST ANSWER: Yes you can print files drawn in inventor using Cura. The file needs to be saved with an STL file extension.
Example (lego.stl)
Also there is a large MP Mini Facebook group for additional support and answers. The MP mini has one of the best support forums available.
Example (lego.stl)
Also there is a large MP Mini Facebook group for additional support and answers. The MP mini has one of the best support forums available.
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- Rob on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 16, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Yes you can print files drawn in inventor using Cura. The file needs to be saved with an STL file extension.
Example (lego.stl)
Also there is a large MP Mini Facebook group for additional support and answers. The MP mini has one of the best support forums available.
Example (lego.stl)
Also there is a large MP Mini Facebook group for additional support and answers. The MP mini has one of the best support forums available.
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- Rob on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 16, 2016
You can! I use Fusion360 with Cura and have a Raspberry Pi that runs Octoprint (Octopi). For its limitations, you can really get a lot done with this printer.
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- Jordan K on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 19, 2016
Yes. Export as STL, import into Cura, slcice and export as GCODE to the mini. I own 10 of these little gems. Use them for production.
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- Rick S on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 19, 2016
I don't see why not. I was using Fusion 360 >> S3D >> WiFi SD Card, but now I'm using Fusion 360 >> S3D >> OctoPrint
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- Robert G on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 19, 2016
You can take files from any program that can export STLs and use them with Cura.
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- Shadow on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 19, 2016
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What do you use the MicroSD card for?
A shopper
on Aug 20, 2017
BEST ANSWER: You can put gcode files on there and print from it without a computer attached. This is actually how I always print, because then I don't have to worry about a computer crash, or Microsoft deciding that I HAVE TO REBOOT RIGHT NOW OMG for a Windows update from ruining a print.
Basically put the SD card in your computer, write the gcode to it, then move it back.
It's also nice if you're doing demos at schools or whatever, you don't have to bring a computer or have it hooked up, you can just run the printer by itself.
Basically put the SD card in your computer, write the gcode to it, then move it back.
It's also nice if you're doing demos at schools or whatever, you don't have to bring a computer or have it hooked up, you can just run the printer by itself.
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- John R on Aug 20, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 23, 2016
BEST ANSWER: You can put gcode files on there and print from it without a computer attached. This is actually how I always print, because then I don't have to worry about a computer crash, or Microsoft deciding that I HAVE TO REBOOT RIGHT NOW OMG for a Windows update from ruining a print.
Basically put the SD card in your computer, write the gcode to it, then move it back.
It's also nice if you're doing demos at schools or whatever, you don't have to bring a computer or have it hooked up, you can just run the printer by itself.
Basically put the SD card in your computer, write the gcode to it, then move it back.
It's also nice if you're doing demos at schools or whatever, you don't have to bring a computer or have it hooked up, you can just run the printer by itself.
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- John R on Aug 20, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 23, 2016
Once you have your G Code or printing paths created, you transfer them from your computer to the printer with the MicroSD card. I believe this can also be done with a USB cable but I prefer using the card.
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- Todd W on Aug 20, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 30, 2016
The printer can be used standalone with no connection to a computer. Pre-sliced gcode files are put on the sdcard and printed. It is also used for firmware updates.
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- Jacob E on Aug 21, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 30, 2016
You store the sliced Gcode files of the object you want to print on the MicroSD card. The MicroSD is more reliable to print from than the USB port.
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- Robert O on Aug 20, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 22, 2016
I believe you can load profiles onto the printer as well as designs to print.
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- Benson on Aug 20, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 23, 2016
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Does this work with Cura 2.3.1? I can print with the older version (15.04.03), but can't connect with 2.3.1. I need 2.3.1 because the behavior is different, and 15.04.03 is adding extraneous surfaces that aren't in my model.
A shopper
on Nov 21, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I upgraded to CURA 2.3.0 and selected the RidgidBot for a printer ... Now I get great prints but the caveat is I have to move the component to the front left quarter of the build table in the CURA 2.3.0 screen.
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- Walt P on Dec 23, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 1, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I upgraded to CURA 2.3.0 and selected the RidgidBot for a printer ... Now I get great prints but the caveat is I have to move the component to the front left quarter of the build table in the CURA 2.3.0 screen.
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- Walt P on Dec 23, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 1, 2016
Yes, works on 2.3.1 with no issue. You can find a proper .json file for via google search. I found it through reddit.
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- Gregory W on Dec 6, 2016
Hi Gregory, I installed Cura 2.6.2 on Linux. Can you share the location where I can find a profile configuration for the printer?
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- New User U on Aug 12, 2017
Leave your question on facebook MP Select Mini Owners group. ..there is a very helpful support group there
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- Inaccurate
- New User U on Nov 25, 2016
Cura removed the USB capabilities in v.2.3.1. You must use the sd card.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Glen M on Dec 7, 2016
- Purchased on Jul 28, 2016
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Will this work with a chrome Book?
A shopper
on Nov 25, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I think you would have difficulty using it directly with a Chromebook. You could conceivably get a raspberry pi and set it up to work with that, at which point you could run it from a web browser and thus the Chromebook would be fine. Alternately, it CAN operate without a computer connection by simply loading g-code onto the included SD card, but I'm not sure the tool chain exists for the Chromebook to generate g-code.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Joseph L on Dec 5, 2016
- Purchased on May 27, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I think you would have difficulty using it directly with a Chromebook. You could conceivably get a raspberry pi and set it up to work with that, at which point you could run it from a web browser and thus the Chromebook would be fine. Alternately, it CAN operate without a computer connection by simply loading g-code onto the included SD card, but I'm not sure the tool chain exists for the Chromebook to generate g-code.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Joseph L on Dec 5, 2016
- Purchased on May 27, 2016
You'll need slicer software to generate gcode to put on its SD card. I do not know of any Chrome based slicer app at this time.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- William Amazon B on Dec 10, 2016
Here is an article about it: mkrclubDOTcom/2015/08/3d-printing-with-chromebook-or-just.html
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Aaron B on Nov 30, 2016
you won't be able to install a slicer, so no.
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- Colby P on Dec 11, 2016
- Purchased on Dec 10, 2016
This may be more work than you want, but you can do it. Chromebooks have the ability to run a full distrobution of linux in a chroot with chromeOS. The setup will take a bit (depending on wifi-speed, really). Look up how to install Crouton. First download it and leave in your downloads folder on your chromebook. Enable Developer mode, setup crouton, download distro, setup distro, setup Slicer. Its a lot of initial work, but totally doable.
Or for $40, you can setup a dedicated Raspberry Pi 3 for this... + added cost of monitor, power cable, sd card, USB keyboard/mouse (or bluetooth)... and you can print off a nice case for the rasbperry pi 3 once you're set.
Or for $40, you can setup a dedicated Raspberry Pi 3 for this... + added cost of monitor, power cable, sd card, USB keyboard/mouse (or bluetooth)... and you can print off a nice case for the rasbperry pi 3 once you're set.
- Reply
- New User U on Dec 24, 2016
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dose it work with tinercad?
New User U
on Dec 20, 2016
BEST ANSWER: The short answer is, "yes."
I had never heard of Tinkercad but it looks great and it looks like you can download .STL files of your models. This printer uses .GCODE files which you need to generate from the .STL files. The free program Slic3r works well for me but there are many other options for slicing models.
I had never heard of Tinkercad but it looks great and it looks like you can download .STL files of your models. This printer uses .GCODE files which you need to generate from the .STL files. The free program Slic3r works well for me but there are many other options for slicing models.
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- Inaccurate
- Tom M on Dec 20, 2016
- Purchased on Jun 29, 2016
BEST ANSWER: The short answer is, "yes."
I had never heard of Tinkercad but it looks great and it looks like you can download .STL files of your models. This printer uses .GCODE files which you need to generate from the .STL files. The free program Slic3r works well for me but there are many other options for slicing models.
I had never heard of Tinkercad but it looks great and it looks like you can download .STL files of your models. This printer uses .GCODE files which you need to generate from the .STL files. The free program Slic3r works well for me but there are many other options for slicing models.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Tom M on Dec 20, 2016
- Purchased on Jun 29, 2016
It uses .gcode, so you would need to download the .stl from tinkercad and then run the .stl through a slicer. (the slicer takes the .stl and converts it into code that tells the printer what it needs to print the file, including things like temperature) This is standard for almost all 3D printers.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- frannyan on Dec 20, 2016
- Purchased on Jun 29, 2016
Yes. You can use models from Tinkercad. But you still have to to run the .stl model from Tinkercad through a slicer to make .gcode that printer needs. Use Cura slicer (free). Works fine.
Summary: Model (.stl)--> Slicer (.gcode)--> printer
Summary: Model (.stl)--> Slicer (.gcode)--> printer
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- Inaccurate
- JOHN A on Dec 20, 2016
- Purchased on Oct 17, 2016
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Does it come with software? I have no CAD experience and I would like to get into 3D printing. What do you use for software?
Bruce S
on Jul 26, 2017
BEST ANSWER: It comes with an old version of Cura for the slicer. I've successfully used a number of other slicers (slic3r, Cura 2.x). For CAD, I've been learning Fusion 360, which isn't as hard to use as its made out to be.
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- Josh P on Aug 2, 2017
BEST ANSWER: It comes with an old version of Cura for the slicer. I've successfully used a number of other slicers (slic3r, Cura 2.x). For CAD, I've been learning Fusion 360, which isn't as hard to use as its made out to be.
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- Inaccurate
- Josh P on Aug 2, 2017
Not really. The manual explains set up a number of third party tools to connect to it, but you will have to either learn how to model or find pre-made models yourself.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- donatj on Jul 26, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 19, 2016
No software to speak of comes with it.However there are several free downloads you can try. I've been using Cura.
- Reply
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- Robert C on Jul 26, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 5, 2016
There are a few free CAD programs out there to try out for design. I've only used Cura for the slicer software.
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- Colin M on Jul 21, 2018
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stopped printing. The temperature can be set and its moving x,y,z ok. But it just does not print anymore. Any ideas?
Suresh R
on Aug 19, 2018
BEST ANSWER: So it's not feeding the filament through? You may be better off using a forum to troubleshoot, it kould be a lot of things.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Jerome A J on Aug 19, 2018
- Purchased on Sep 6, 2017
BEST ANSWER: So it's not feeding the filament through? You may be better off using a forum to troubleshoot, it kould be a lot of things.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Jerome A J on Aug 19, 2018
- Purchased on Sep 6, 2017
Join Reddit and subscribe to r/MPSelectMiniOwners It might even already be addressed in the FAQ there.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Jerry J on Aug 20, 2018
- Purchased on Aug 26, 2017
I’d check to see if the nozzle is clogged. Also make sure the filament feed gears are turning.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Jerry S on Aug 19, 2018
- Purchased on Aug 31, 2017
If you're printing from the SD card, format it and try again.
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- Taylor D on Aug 19, 2018
- Purchased on Aug 13, 2017
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can I use stl file instead of gcode for printing?
A shopper
on Dec 11, 2018
BEST ANSWER: You need to use a slicer to convert the stl into instructions on how to print the object. Each model printer has different baseline settings and users will adjust additional settings based on preferences, materials, and needs. A gcode file contains all of those settings and instructions.
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- Clark B on Dec 11, 2018
- Purchased on Mar 6, 2018
BEST ANSWER: You need to use a slicer to convert the stl into instructions on how to print the object. Each model printer has different baseline settings and users will adjust additional settings based on preferences, materials, and needs. A gcode file contains all of those settings and instructions.
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- Inaccurate
- Clark B on Dec 11, 2018
- Purchased on Mar 6, 2018
You can download an STL file and load it into a converter of sorts like Cura and save it to a Gcode file that you either save to a memory card or send it to the printer via USB.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Greg E on Dec 11, 2018
- Purchased on Mar 15, 2018
Unfortunately, no. However, software such as Cura makes taking an STL file and translating it into GCode pretty easy, and it's free.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Cole H on Dec 12, 2018
- Purchased on Mar 19, 2018
Import the Stl file, in to CURA, to create thegcode.
- Reply
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- Robert L on Dec 12, 2018
- Purchased on Mar 21, 2018
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how big is the printer itself with filament?
A shopper
on May 26, 2019
BEST ANSWER: With the filament roll on, I have it sitting on one of those dinner trays you use to watch tv and eat, regular sized and I have room for other stuff on the sides, tools, tape, etc.
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- Inaccurate
- Edward H on May 28, 2019
- Purchased on Jul 2, 2018
BEST ANSWER: With the filament roll on, I have it sitting on one of those dinner trays you use to watch tv and eat, regular sized and I have room for other stuff on the sides, tools, tape, etc.
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- Inaccurate
- Edward H on May 28, 2019
- Purchased on Jul 2, 2018
13.5″ x 11.3 x 7.5″ is its exact dimensions, I think a roll of filament is around 4 inches in thickness and a 12 inch circle. It sits on an arm on the side of the unit.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Christopher C on May 27, 2019
- Purchased on Jun 26, 2018
I bought a big spool and mine was roughly 12x 12 and 18 tall they are not very big
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Robert B on May 27, 2019
- Purchased on Jun 8, 2018
The unit itself : 13.5" x 11.3 x 7.5" (343 x 287 x 190 mm)
- Reply
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- Sam F on May 27, 2019
- Purchased on Jun 11, 2018
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does it work with the ideapad 100s ?
A shopper
on Dec 18, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Hello, thank you for your question. Yes the the MP Select Mini is compatible with the Lenovo Ideapad 100s. I hope this helps, and of course if you have any more questions feel free to contact us!
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- Inaccurate
- Jeff M Staff on Jan 17, 2017
BEST ANSWER: Hello, thank you for your question. Yes the the MP Select Mini is compatible with the Lenovo Ideapad 100s. I hope this helps, and of course if you have any more questions feel free to contact us!
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- Inaccurate
- Jeff M Staff on Jan 17, 2017
I would say it is capable of feeding gcode data over USB to the printer or to a =n SD card but as far as 3d design work on that computing device, hard to say as it has limited memory and storage.
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- Inaccurate
- Greg S on Jan 17, 2017
- Purchased on May 27, 2016
It should. The software it uses is freely available (Cura). If you can run that and have a USB port or a microSD card slot, you can use this device.
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- Joseph L on Jan 17, 2017
- Purchased on May 27, 2016
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i have a mac and what do i need to do to wirelessly hook it up to my mac?
A shopper
on Dec 20, 2016
BEST ANSWER: You can setup a Raspberry Pi with a wifi adapter and run OctoPi on it. OctoPi is a Raspbian linux distribution pre-configured with OctoPrint. You plug the Pi into the printer via USB and OctoPi/OctoPrint can then control the printer and provides an intuitive, simple (but a little ugly) web interface that you can use to control every aspect of printing from uploading and slicing a model (it uses Cura in the backend to perform the slicing), to starting the print, monitoring the print, and even creating a time-lapse video of your print if you have a camera connected. A definite "must have" for any 3D printer.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Christopher R on Dec 21, 2016
- Purchased on Jun 30, 2016
BEST ANSWER: You can setup a Raspberry Pi with a wifi adapter and run OctoPi on it. OctoPi is a Raspbian linux distribution pre-configured with OctoPrint. You plug the Pi into the printer via USB and OctoPi/OctoPrint can then control the printer and provides an intuitive, simple (but a little ugly) web interface that you can use to control every aspect of printing from uploading and slicing a model (it uses Cura in the backend to perform the slicing), to starting the print, monitoring the print, and even creating a time-lapse video of your print if you have a camera connected. A definite "must have" for any 3D printer.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Christopher R on Dec 21, 2016
- Purchased on Jun 30, 2016
It does not connect via WiFi, but it does print unattended from a microSD card. Use Cura (or some other slicer software) on your mac, save the gcode to a microSD card, and then put that microSD card in the printer.
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- Inaccurate
- Claudia M on Dec 25, 2016
- Purchased on Dec 4, 2016
The printer isn't WiFi enabled. You might try a USB - WiFi dongle ... let me know if you get it to work! I'm the SolidWorksMagi on YouTube.
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- Walt P on Dec 23, 2016
- Purchased on Nov 1, 2016
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USB driver is not working with my computer running windows 8.1. Cura does not show the USB connection. I used the driver that came with and it does work. Where can I download the right drives?
A shopper
on Dec 22, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Hello, is this specifically only occurring under Windows 8.1 or in other OS versions as well? Have you also tried it on a different USB port by the way? It is recommended to connect it on the USB ports located on the back of the computer for best compatibility. I hope this helps, thank you!
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- New User U Staff on Jan 5, 2017
I am having the same problem with Windows 7 Professional. I have tried multiple USB cables and ports. Is there any way to download the drivers separately?
- Reply
- Jennifer B on Jun 29, 2017
BEST ANSWER: Hello, is this specifically only occurring under Windows 8.1 or in other OS versions as well? Have you also tried it on a different USB port by the way? It is recommended to connect it on the USB ports located on the back of the computer for best compatibility. I hope this helps, thank you!
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- New User U Staff on Jan 5, 2017
I am having the same problem with Windows 7 Professional. I have tried multiple USB cables and ports. Is there any way to download the drivers separately?
- Reply
- Jennifer B on Jun 29, 2017
For me, going to device manager to figure out which com port it was on, then selecting 57600 baud make it work. Win10, 64-bit.
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- New User U on Aug 20, 2017
mine never worked no matter what cable or driver i tried. had to send back
- Reply
- New User U on Sep 5, 2017
I had the same problem at first, found that it was the USB Cable that was the problem, changed it and everything was fine.
- Reply(1)
- Inaccurate
- Rick H on Jan 13, 2017
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When I set the printer to Home axis as it says to do in the setup instructions, the nozzle goes to the front left corner of the platform. It then moves around and scratched the tape on the build platform. Also, the position doesn't allow me to reach the front left screw to level and change the depth of the build platform correctly. In the instructions it shows the home axis as front middle. Is there something wrong? If so what?
New User U
on Feb 3, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I guess I was lucky, my build plate started off level right out of the box. But I wouldn't worry much if yours isn't. Even if it was -- things don't stay level for long. When you change the tape to a thicker/thinner one or have to dismantle the hot-end to fix a clog -- you're going to have to re-level. It's not too hard.
Start by homing the printer. It'll put it at the 0, 0, 0 location -- the front corner. Make sure that the nozzle doesn't touch the plate here.
Now insert a small bit of paper (just plain printer paper is fine) between the nozzle and the build-plate.
Then start unscrewing the corner screw. If you can't get access to it, then use the movement menus to move the print head over a bit.
Unscrew until the paper has the slightest bit of resistance. It should neither be totally free to move nor totally tacked down by the nozzle.
Once that corner is done use the movement menus to shift the print-head over to another corner.
Repeat for each corner.
If the level was a long way off when you started, you will probably need to do another pass.
I know when you're just getting started the process of leveling can seem pretty tedious. But keep at it because (1) you get a lot faster at it once you've done it a few times and (2) an un-leveled bed causes so many problems (hot-end clogging, bed adhesion problems, warping, etc.) -- it's well worth the time spent.
Start by homing the printer. It'll put it at the 0, 0, 0 location -- the front corner. Make sure that the nozzle doesn't touch the plate here.
Now insert a small bit of paper (just plain printer paper is fine) between the nozzle and the build-plate.
Then start unscrewing the corner screw. If you can't get access to it, then use the movement menus to move the print head over a bit.
Unscrew until the paper has the slightest bit of resistance. It should neither be totally free to move nor totally tacked down by the nozzle.
Once that corner is done use the movement menus to shift the print-head over to another corner.
Repeat for each corner.
If the level was a long way off when you started, you will probably need to do another pass.
I know when you're just getting started the process of leveling can seem pretty tedious. But keep at it because (1) you get a lot faster at it once you've done it a few times and (2) an un-leveled bed causes so many problems (hot-end clogging, bed adhesion problems, warping, etc.) -- it's well worth the time spent.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Isaiah C on Feb 9, 2017
- Purchased on May 30, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I guess I was lucky, my build plate started off level right out of the box. But I wouldn't worry much if yours isn't. Even if it was -- things don't stay level for long. When you change the tape to a thicker/thinner one or have to dismantle the hot-end to fix a clog -- you're going to have to re-level. It's not too hard.
Start by homing the printer. It'll put it at the 0, 0, 0 location -- the front corner. Make sure that the nozzle doesn't touch the plate here.
Now insert a small bit of paper (just plain printer paper is fine) between the nozzle and the build-plate.
Then start unscrewing the corner screw. If you can't get access to it, then use the movement menus to move the print head over a bit.
Unscrew until the paper has the slightest bit of resistance. It should neither be totally free to move nor totally tacked down by the nozzle.
Once that corner is done use the movement menus to shift the print-head over to another corner.
Repeat for each corner.
If the level was a long way off when you started, you will probably need to do another pass.
I know when you're just getting started the process of leveling can seem pretty tedious. But keep at it because (1) you get a lot faster at it once you've done it a few times and (2) an un-leveled bed causes so many problems (hot-end clogging, bed adhesion problems, warping, etc.) -- it's well worth the time spent.
Start by homing the printer. It'll put it at the 0, 0, 0 location -- the front corner. Make sure that the nozzle doesn't touch the plate here.
Now insert a small bit of paper (just plain printer paper is fine) between the nozzle and the build-plate.
Then start unscrewing the corner screw. If you can't get access to it, then use the movement menus to move the print head over a bit.
Unscrew until the paper has the slightest bit of resistance. It should neither be totally free to move nor totally tacked down by the nozzle.
Once that corner is done use the movement menus to shift the print-head over to another corner.
Repeat for each corner.
If the level was a long way off when you started, you will probably need to do another pass.
I know when you're just getting started the process of leveling can seem pretty tedious. But keep at it because (1) you get a lot faster at it once you've done it a few times and (2) an un-leveled bed causes so many problems (hot-end clogging, bed adhesion problems, warping, etc.) -- it's well worth the time spent.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Isaiah C on Feb 9, 2017
- Purchased on May 30, 2016
When the nozzle reaches the front left position and just starts to move towards the platform , shut the power off this will give you the ability to move the nozzle and the platform around so you can reach all of the screws on the platform and make your leveling adjustment I use a sheet of regular copy paper to set the gap . One other note I use blue painters tape on the platform , that has given me the best adhesion . Good luck and have fun !! ??
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Ernest C on Feb 8, 2017
- Purchased on May 29, 2016
Hey, sorry you are having issues with your printer. The correct home location is front left, and I found that I had to lower the bed a bit first, before going to the home axis. Then, I could move the end around the print bed without it scratching, in addition to actually being able to reach the screws :). This allowed me to level all four corners pretty easily. Hope this helps!
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- Ethan B on Feb 8, 2017
- Purchased on May 31, 2016
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If you were to make a 2 inch by 2 inch by 2 inch cube, how long would it take? Just to give me an idea on its speed
A shopper
on Feb 14, 2017
BEST ANSWER: Using the Cura settings on a 2 inch cube and my own judgement of fudge factor, I expect a 2 inch cube with wall thickness of 1.2mm and 20% infill will take 4 hrs. A solid cube block 100% infill will probably take 13-15 hrs. A toothbrush holder took me 4.5 hrs.
- Reply
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- J M on Feb 14, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 29, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Using the Cura settings on a 2 inch cube and my own judgement of fudge factor, I expect a 2 inch cube with wall thickness of 1.2mm and 20% infill will take 4 hrs. A solid cube block 100% infill will probably take 13-15 hrs. A toothbrush holder took me 4.5 hrs.
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- J M on Feb 14, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 29, 2016
That would entirely depend on the settings you put in your slicer.
For a general idea of speed, I'd rate this one medium. It's not super fast but it's not a turtle either.
For a general idea of speed, I'd rate this one medium. It's not super fast but it's not a turtle either.
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- frannyan on Feb 14, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 29, 2016
Haven't actually done this, but given other projects I have done, you are probably looking at 4-5 hours if the block is "honeycombed" on the inside. Double that if solid.
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- Cajun on Feb 14, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 29, 2016
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Okay... Set up the printer, printed the sample Lucky Cat... Downloaded Cura and uploaded a design from TinkerCad to G Code... How can I print directly from the USB connection (Printer to Computer?) Detailed response would be helpful because I am new to all of this!
Thanks!
Thanks!
New User U
on Feb 16, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I would strongly recommend you simply copy the Gcode file to the micro-SD card and print that way for now. That way you will have one less issues to deal with if there are any problems. Once you get the actual printing down then you can expand your ability to use USB, etc.
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- Rick D on Feb 16, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 30, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I would strongly recommend you simply copy the Gcode file to the micro-SD card and print that way for now. That way you will have one less issues to deal with if there are any problems. Once you get the actual printing down then you can expand your ability to use USB, etc.
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- Rick D on Feb 16, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 30, 2016
Quite honestly, if you read the manual that is linked on this website, they tell you how to set up Cura or Repetier to print over USB/
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- Dan K on Feb 17, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 30, 2016
Cura will take the .stl file and create the G-code. You need a program such as Repetier-Host to send the G-code to the printer.
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- M M on Feb 16, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 30, 2016
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So i download files from Thingiverse and Myminifactory but when i open it in Cura, it says it is ignored because it has a .zip . How can i fix this?
A shopper
on Feb 17, 2017
BEST ANSWER: To unzip (extract) files or folders from a zipped folder
Locate the zipped folder that you want to unzip (extract) files or folders from.
Do one of the following:
To unzip a single file or folder, open the zipped folder, then drag the file or folder from the zipped folder to a new location.
To unzip all the contents of the zipped folder, press and hold (or right-click) the folder, select Extract All, and then follow the instructions
Copied from_support.microsoft_dot_com/en-us/help/14200/windows-compress-uncompress-zip-files
Locate the zipped folder that you want to unzip (extract) files or folders from.
Do one of the following:
To unzip a single file or folder, open the zipped folder, then drag the file or folder from the zipped folder to a new location.
To unzip all the contents of the zipped folder, press and hold (or right-click) the folder, select Extract All, and then follow the instructions
Copied from_support.microsoft_dot_com/en-us/help/14200/windows-compress-uncompress-zip-files
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- Matthew U on Feb 17, 2017
- Purchased on May 26, 2016
BEST ANSWER: To unzip (extract) files or folders from a zipped folder
Locate the zipped folder that you want to unzip (extract) files or folders from.
Do one of the following:
To unzip a single file or folder, open the zipped folder, then drag the file or folder from the zipped folder to a new location.
To unzip all the contents of the zipped folder, press and hold (or right-click) the folder, select Extract All, and then follow the instructions
Copied from_support.microsoft_dot_com/en-us/help/14200/windows-compress-uncompress-zip-files
Locate the zipped folder that you want to unzip (extract) files or folders from.
Do one of the following:
To unzip a single file or folder, open the zipped folder, then drag the file or folder from the zipped folder to a new location.
To unzip all the contents of the zipped folder, press and hold (or right-click) the folder, select Extract All, and then follow the instructions
Copied from_support.microsoft_dot_com/en-us/help/14200/windows-compress-uncompress-zip-files
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- Inaccurate
- Matthew U on Feb 17, 2017
- Purchased on May 26, 2016
Extract the zip file by double clicking it. It should create a folder with the same name. Inside that folder you'll find an .STL file (or a few) you can use.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- David B on Feb 17, 2017
- Purchased on May 27, 2016
unzip or extract the files first.
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- Harold M on Feb 17, 2017
- Purchased on May 27, 2016
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What program do you use?
A shopper
on Feb 24, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I use Cura 2 with a custom printer configuration. Printer config I use is 12x12x12; I also had to change nozzle diameter to 1.75 from 3mm I had set as default in Cura.
I used to print via OctoPrint running on Raspberry PI connected to the printer via USB, but later I realized it's much more reliable to save sliced files to SD card and print from SD card.
I used to print via OctoPrint running on Raspberry PI connected to the printer via USB, but later I realized it's much more reliable to save sliced files to SD card and print from SD card.
- Reply
- Inaccurate
- Alan E on Feb 24, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 11, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I use Cura 2 with a custom printer configuration. Printer config I use is 12x12x12; I also had to change nozzle diameter to 1.75 from 3mm I had set as default in Cura.
I used to print via OctoPrint running on Raspberry PI connected to the printer via USB, but later I realized it's much more reliable to save sliced files to SD card and print from SD card.
I used to print via OctoPrint running on Raspberry PI connected to the printer via USB, but later I realized it's much more reliable to save sliced files to SD card and print from SD card.
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- Alan E on Feb 24, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 11, 2016
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Does it breakdown a lot?
A shopper
on Mar 2, 2017
BEST ANSWER: In my experience, the machine is solid. Mechanical troubles I've had were mainly due to improper use. For example, an incorrect hot end setting may result in clogging, and very serious clogging may require a nozzle replacement if the clog cannot be cleared. Once I got the hang of slicing and printing, I've found the Select Mini to be very robust and reliable.
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- Michael S on Mar 2, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 21, 2016
BEST ANSWER: In my experience, the machine is solid. Mechanical troubles I've had were mainly due to improper use. For example, an incorrect hot end setting may result in clogging, and very serious clogging may require a nozzle replacement if the clog cannot be cleared. Once I got the hang of slicing and printing, I've found the Select Mini to be very robust and reliable.
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- Michael S on Mar 2, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 21, 2016
No. Many of us run these nearly 24/7 and they chug away like good little workhorses. I've had mine for 8 months and it has never failed me.
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- Jens C on Mar 3, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 21, 2016
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am I able to print wood and other materials with this printer?
A shopper
on Mar 7, 2017
BEST ANSWER: I have not, but many others have. You should check out the MP Select Mini group on Facebook. There are over 4,000 members and they are very helpful. I have been having a lot of luck with Hatchbox PLA filament. Hatchbox does make a wood filament. Some people have even printed carbon fiber, but you should swap out your brass nozzle for a stainless steel one, as it will chew up the brass.
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- Frederick B on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 24, 2016
BEST ANSWER: I have not, but many others have. You should check out the MP Select Mini group on Facebook. There are over 4,000 members and they are very helpful. I have been having a lot of luck with Hatchbox PLA filament. Hatchbox does make a wood filament. Some people have even printed carbon fiber, but you should swap out your brass nozzle for a stainless steel one, as it will chew up the brass.
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- Frederick B on Mar 9, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 24, 2016
Yes you can print wood, to print materials such as carbon fiber you need a hardened steel nossle
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- Stuart S on Mar 8, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 23, 2016
They make wood filaments and yes you can print them on the MP select Mini.
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- jerry w on Mar 7, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 26, 2016
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what 3d modeling programs do you suggest for the monoprice MP Select mini 3d printer?
A shopper
on Apr 16, 2017
BEST ANSWER: OnShape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD, anything that can make or export an STL, for Cura to process into gcode.
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- Dave B on Apr 19, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 2, 2016
BEST ANSWER: OnShape, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD, anything that can make or export an STL, for Cura to process into gcode.
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- Dave B on Apr 19, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 2, 2016
onshape is a good cad system that is online, has a free plan, and pretty quick to create a model.
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- David T on Apr 16, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 2, 2016
Simplify 3d is a good paid option. Cura or Slic3r work great as a free option.
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- Jonathan V on Apr 16, 2017
- Purchased on Jun 13, 2016
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How do you get a clog out of the extruder?
A shopper
on May 6, 2017
BEST ANSWER: First, curse at it. Next, with the printer off and cool, remove the two spring clips that hold on the fan and let the fan flop out of the way. Behind the fan is an aluminum heatsink. The feed tube is held to the top of the heatsink by an allen screw. Unscrew it a turn or two to release the feed tube fitting. Press the filament release lever and slide the feed tube a few inches away from the heatsink. Cut the filament and let the feed tube flop out of the way. If your printer has a plastic bushing between the feed tube and the metal hot end, slide it out.
Now the tricky part. Use the front panel controls to heat the hotend to 5-10 degrees hotter than what you normally print at. With the hot end hot, grab the end of the filament and pull it out. If it won't come out, that's okay. Try using an allen wrench or other round tool to push it down and through the hot end. If won't extrude, then your nozzle is probably clogged. You can try unclogging it by shoving a small piece of wire or a drill bit up through the nozzle. The nozzle is 0.4mm, and a #79, 1/64, or 0.4 mm drill bit will work.
As long as you don't remove the nozzle or the bottom heatsink screw that holds the hotend then you won't have to re-level the bed.
If this is unclear I can make a video on it.
Now the tricky part. Use the front panel controls to heat the hotend to 5-10 degrees hotter than what you normally print at. With the hot end hot, grab the end of the filament and pull it out. If it won't come out, that's okay. Try using an allen wrench or other round tool to push it down and through the hot end. If won't extrude, then your nozzle is probably clogged. You can try unclogging it by shoving a small piece of wire or a drill bit up through the nozzle. The nozzle is 0.4mm, and a #79, 1/64, or 0.4 mm drill bit will work.
As long as you don't remove the nozzle or the bottom heatsink screw that holds the hotend then you won't have to re-level the bed.
If this is unclear I can make a video on it.
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- Elizabeth on May 6, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 29, 2016
BEST ANSWER: First, curse at it. Next, with the printer off and cool, remove the two spring clips that hold on the fan and let the fan flop out of the way. Behind the fan is an aluminum heatsink. The feed tube is held to the top of the heatsink by an allen screw. Unscrew it a turn or two to release the feed tube fitting. Press the filament release lever and slide the feed tube a few inches away from the heatsink. Cut the filament and let the feed tube flop out of the way. If your printer has a plastic bushing between the feed tube and the metal hot end, slide it out.
Now the tricky part. Use the front panel controls to heat the hotend to 5-10 degrees hotter than what you normally print at. With the hot end hot, grab the end of the filament and pull it out. If it won't come out, that's okay. Try using an allen wrench or other round tool to push it down and through the hot end. If won't extrude, then your nozzle is probably clogged. You can try unclogging it by shoving a small piece of wire or a drill bit up through the nozzle. The nozzle is 0.4mm, and a #79, 1/64, or 0.4 mm drill bit will work.
As long as you don't remove the nozzle or the bottom heatsink screw that holds the hotend then you won't have to re-level the bed.
If this is unclear I can make a video on it.
Now the tricky part. Use the front panel controls to heat the hotend to 5-10 degrees hotter than what you normally print at. With the hot end hot, grab the end of the filament and pull it out. If it won't come out, that's okay. Try using an allen wrench or other round tool to push it down and through the hot end. If won't extrude, then your nozzle is probably clogged. You can try unclogging it by shoving a small piece of wire or a drill bit up through the nozzle. The nozzle is 0.4mm, and a #79, 1/64, or 0.4 mm drill bit will work.
As long as you don't remove the nozzle or the bottom heatsink screw that holds the hotend then you won't have to re-level the bed.
If this is unclear I can make a video on it.
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- Elizabeth on May 6, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 29, 2016
My sons says there are a few ways heat up and remove head , use acetone to clean clog , dry pull pulling filinent through by manually feeding the filament through
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- Janet W on May 6, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 26, 2016
One way is to heat it up and then push it out with more filament and another way is to heat it up and poke it out with the right sized poker or drill bit
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- robert f on May 6, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 24, 2016
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Would you think this mp printer is better than the da Vinci Mini?
A shopper
on Jul 18, 2017
BEST ANSWER: Have had this for ~ a year. It is used primarily by my kids. Once set up, I have had zero complaints about reliability nor quality. The daVinci Mini looks like the same printer with a pretty dress. I always intended first 3D printer to be a learning tool, and as such we go through lots of filament so cheap is important. daVinci Mini require you to buy their filament which I believe cost upwards of 30% more. In addition to cheaper filament, there is more variety - glow in dark and neon colors are big hit with my kids.
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- Andrew Y on Jul 18, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 21, 2016
BEST ANSWER: Have had this for ~ a year. It is used primarily by my kids. Once set up, I have had zero complaints about reliability nor quality. The daVinci Mini looks like the same printer with a pretty dress. I always intended first 3D printer to be a learning tool, and as such we go through lots of filament so cheap is important. daVinci Mini require you to buy their filament which I believe cost upwards of 30% more. In addition to cheaper filament, there is more variety - glow in dark and neon colors are big hit with my kids.
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- Andrew Y on Jul 18, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 21, 2016
Not having used another printer, I can't say which one prints better. But one reason I chose Monoprice was the fact that it doesn't need branded (expensive) filament.
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- Michael S on Jul 18, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 21, 2016
The MP is very versatile but not easy to use the Da Vinci is easy to use but not to versatile. I use my MP to print in wax. Which the mini cannot do
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- robert f on Jul 18, 2017
- Purchased on Jul 24, 2016
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I got my mp select mini v2 today and followed all the steps once I got to the step to extrude the filament nothing came out the only thing that happened was a loud grinding sound did this happen to anyone else?
A shopper
on Aug 4, 2017
BEST ANSWER: It's possible your filament isn't all the way in. Pull it out, see if the tip is melted. If it's not, cut it off at a 45 degree. Then try feeding it again.
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- Joe l on Aug 4, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 22, 2016
BEST ANSWER: It's possible your filament isn't all the way in. Pull it out, see if the tip is melted. If it's not, cut it off at a 45 degree. Then try feeding it again.
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- Joe l on Aug 4, 2017
- Purchased on Aug 22, 2016