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Monoprice Titan Series Tilt TV Wall Mount Bracket, For TVs 30in to 63in, Max Weight 165 lbs, VESA Patterns Up to 750x45...
Monoprice Titan Series Tilt TV Wall Mount Bracket For TVs 37in to 70in, Max Weight 165lbs, Extension Range of 37in to 7...
Questions and Answers
Also note that picking the exact spot that will minimize picture distortion takes some time to find, and is half the battle to properly mounting.
The main problem with this mount is that the pre-cut holes in the main pipe/shaft (which exist so that you can hide the cables in the shaft as they travel from the projector to the ceiling) aren't big enough if you're running more than power + 1 HDMI. I ran 2 VGA cables, HDMI, power, and s-video, and there was no way it was going to fit. Another problem is that the pieces that attach to the shaft will take up another half inch on each end of the shaft, so the cables need to be able to squeeze past them too. The fix is to take an angle-grinder to the pre-cut holes and enlarge them as needed (then file the rough edges).
Hope that saves you some time for your install.
PROS: Short—a must have for normal ceiling heights!
Sturdy once installed.
CONS: Pre-cut holes in the main pipe/shaft aren't big enough. Instructions are just mediocre.
Anyhow, for posterity, here is how you do it. Pick up the piece with the plate that mounts to the projector. Look on the bottom. See that hex screw? When you loosen it, it allows the mount plate to slip a bit. That's the +/-15 degrees they refer to. To loosen it you need a wrench to hold the nut on the other side. The key is to make the bolt tight enough that holds the projector position when you move it, but not so tight that it won't move. There is no way to adjust this once the projector is in place, so you have to get the tension just right.
Hopefully this saves a poor lost soul out there who was stumped.
PROS: inexpensive. Sufficient
CONS: Weak instructions on adjustments.
The three holes for mounting to the ceiling are spaced at 120 degrees. Since I wanted to mount into a 2x4 beam in the ceiling, that meant only the front two holes could be screwed in directly. I guess that's supposed to be okay, but I did not like how that meant the two screws would not be through the center plane of the mount. I bought a nicer captive dry wall anchor at Home Depot for the third hole, and felt much more secure after that was in place.
The mounting of the projector to the three octopus arms was ok for two of the holes, the third required ditching the octopus arm and directly mounting to the bracket instead with a longer screw and some spacers.
I also used the 24" inch extension arm. The whole nut-spring thing is a bit dicey personally I don't have any concerns once you turn the nut into place. The bigger issue was trying to push the whole projector/mount upwards until they securely snap into place. Do not assume anything in terms of them catching...make sure they are fully seated before taking a hand off your new PJ. Nerve-racking to say the least.
There isn't much adjustment once it's in place. I was fortunate, in that I was able to adjust it just enough to get rid of the slight tilt it had initially.
Now that it's in place, I can say it's easily worth the $15. If I have to move or otherwise re-mount my PJ, I'll buy a different mount first.
Extensions are cheap too.
CONS: Limited adjustability.
Truly secure mounting requires a little improvisation.
PROS: Amazing Price
Very solid, all metal design.
It is adjustable (both swivel and tilt)
2 different down-rod lengths available
CONS: Limited to 2 down-rod lengths. And you have to use one of them. No flushmount.
Didn't come with screws to mount Optoma Projector (only $1 at Lowe's)
Limited tilt adjustment. The specs say 15 degree adjustment, though I'm not sure.
Tilt / Swivel adjustment are held by friction and not via screws
PROS: +Solid construction
+Adjusted to my projector's mount points
+Easy to install
+Quick release feature helpful
CONS: -Did not come with M3 scews to fit my Optoma HD180 projector (why my manufacturer chose to use such tiny screws is the more salient question)
-Manual was very light on how to adjust mount orientation. Did not explain how to tilt the projector left/right, up/back. I assumed it was through adjusting the three individual arms in different configurations but since my projector was level on install, I did not press further for more information.
-Tiny springs in quick release mechanism seem like weak point in overall solid construction
First, I used the manufacturers manual (Sony VPL-AW15 in this case) to determine where their specified bracket would be mounted (centered) on the projector. Thankfully, this gave me the guidance (and dimensional measurements) to determine where the three bracket arms should be aligned to the unit. This is important as you will need to place the projector bracket directly in the units center of gravity for optimum stability. With this in-place on the projector, I was able to account for the linear distance between the lens and the center of the bracket to assist in later measurements.
After determining the optimum viewing distance between the screen (for the size) and the lens (for optimum 11 or 1x throw), I subtracted the earlier-acquired linear distance between the lens and center of the mount and, as luck would hav it, I wound-up spot-on at the end. This little bit of care will go a long way toward a happy result. At that point, X marks the spot on my ceiling and I was ready to prepare the ceiling mounting bracket.
At this point, you may use the optional wall anchors to mount the ceiling bracket (assuming the projector is light enough). Me being me, I knew that I would like to swing from the projector if the mood struck me. So, off to the hardware store. I purchased a 4 UL-listed steel electrical box with rounded corners and the corresponding steel blank cover that could be directly attached. This blank cover would hold my ceiling bracket with a little bit of customization thanks to Mr. Drill Press.
I also rummaged around and found one of those off-the-shelf, flat, white plates (intended for covering an empty ceiling fan hole or the like) that would cover the whole steel plate to make the assembly match my white ceiling and the mount. Of course, I needed to also replace the rounded cap screws that come with the box with flat-headed screws for a flush mount, but this was as easy as carrying the box to the fasteners aisle at the same store and picking them up for a few cents. Make sure you purchase high-quality, steel screws as these two make up the foundation of your ceiling mount by holding the steel plate to the box. Additionally, take the ceiling bracket portion of the kit with you to the store to get the optimum bolt size I purchased three sets of screws, lock washers, and nuts to bolt the ceiling bracket to the steel plate of the UL box.
After a visit to Mr. Drill Press and assembly of the ceiling bracket to the center of the steel plate (white plate in-between), I needed a hole in the ceiling. I opted to spend $30 on a drill-mounted, 4 hole saw and locking drill bit. There are kits available that include both together (ceiling fan kits), but those hole saws were much larger than the 4 box I wanted to use. Additionally, I have a plaster ceiling and needed quality teeth on the saw as well as a deep cut. It pretty much demanded a quality hole saw (and Ill be able to use it again for other holy projects). 4.0 is perfect for the 4 deep box with rounded corners. When I was finished with the cut, the box fit in it like a glove with no room for jiggle (which was my goal).
For my swinging pleasure, I wanted to make sure it the box was mounted to a stud between the joists. Im sure a ceiling fan bracket with a pre-attached 4 rounded box would work just as well, but I installed a 2x2 stud between my joists. By making the 2x2 cut a snug fit, I was able to adjust the height of the stud/box assembly by tapping it with a mallet from the attic. My goal was to make the box flush with the ceiling below (an assistant down below makes this a lot easier). After finding the right height, I screwed the assembly to the joists to lock it into place. I was now ready to swing from the rafters at my leisure (or mount the projector).
The rest was a piece of cake. The plate/ceiling bracket assembly was screwed to the ceiling box. At this point, the white plastic/rubber trim piece should be placed over the bracket (forgot it the first time). Then, the short tube was locked to the ceiling bracket. Finally, the projector bracket (with projector attached) was locked into the other end of the tube and, wa-la! We have a mounted unit.
Adjustment after installation was simple, and the leverage the assembly provides allows you to adjust the left/right, up/down, and level by manipulating the projector directly. I did not need to loosen any of the bolts/nuts internal to the respective ceiling and projector brackets as a result (so, leave those alone). I opted to use the longer tube (included) later to try and get a more level angle between the projected image and the screen (more optimal for light output and less keystone adjustment), and I dont think its any more obtrusive from a height/down-hang perspective.
As someone else may have noted earlier, you could easily spin the unit off-center because of the leverage of the assembly, but I dont find this as much of a problem as a feature. Besides, you shouldnt be touching the thing unless its an accident Its not going to spin itself.
At the end of the day, I spent less than $20 for the mount kit, $30 for the proper tools, and $10 to $15 for the box and stud assembly. I feel like I got a hell of a deal compared to the manufacturers options and, with a little more effort, I made an okay kit into a very sturdy and robust solution. Just like anything, you can make it as simple or complex as youd like, but I think the effort pays for itself.
Thanks again, MonoPrice.com!
PROS: Easy to mount, value, sturdy
The materials use are very sturdy, but would not use a projector that weights more than recommended 22 lbs.
PROS: Great price. Sturdy materials. Unobstrusive design.
CONS: Difficult adjustment of tilt. Tilt mechanisim is difficultto spot at first. Not displayed in manual.