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Aria In-Wall Speaker 10-Inch Subwoofer Passive 200W max (single)
This in-wall bridge speaker transforms your smaller 2-way in-wall or satellite speakers into full range monitors. This compact, non-powered sub is not for replacing a decent powered LFE subwoofer, but to bridge the frequency gap often found when trying to pair smaller speakers to a high powered subwoofer.
While typical compact 2-way speakers do a fine job of covering the high and mid frequency audio, they tend to taper off at the upper end of the low frequencies leaving a sonic gap between the highs and lows. You can adjust the upper end of your powered subs crossover to compensate, but that ends up sacrificing sound staging and depth of field as the directional upper low end frequencies start to collapse onto the location of your sub. Pair these with each of your main speakers for clearer, more well defined audio and wider sound staging. Bi-amp them with a capable amp or receiver to get the ultimate audio experience. It will be like having massive full range tower speakers without sacrificing any living space.
Please note that the video on this page shows the specific instructions for installation of PID 6317. While this speaker mounts into the wall much differently than the one in the video, the video shows the basic steps, tools, and types of procedures that would be used for the installation of any in-wall or in-ceiling speaker, and is included on this page for reference purposes only. Please refer to the specific installation instructions of the in-wall or in-ceiling speaker you have for the specific dimensions and installation procedures.
|Frequency Response||35 Hz ~ 3.0 kHz|
|Power Handling Capacity||100 watts nominal / 200 watts max|
|Woofer||10" Non-press Cone Woofer|
|Magnet Size||30 oz.|
|Sensitivity||88dB ±2dB (1.0m/2.0V)|
|Crossover||6dB per octave|
|Cut-out Dimensions||10.6" x 10.6"|
|Overall Dimentions||11.9" x 11.9"|
|Cold Test||-25°C ± 3° for 16 hours|
|Heat Test||+70°C ± 2° for 16 hours|
Questions and Answers
Is this correct , does it come with a passive crossover ?
2x 4929 (1 is OK but 2 will give you a nice warmth without having a hot spot)
4x 18587 (mounted in the corners, again coverage is better than volume)
4x18587 (2 in foyer, 1 in each bathroom)
If instructors are using microphones you may want to step up to the Caliber or Alpha versions of these Aria speaker. Sub only available in Aria.
Finding a amplifier that doesn't cost a ton was difficult. Also, since I didn't want to cut any other holes in my walls, I was looking for a rack amplifier instead of a wall plate amplifier. After what felt like an exhaustive search I found the Pyle PQA 2100 rack amplifier for $118 each. At 2 ohms it puts out 2100 total watts between 2 channels. However since these subwoofers are 8 ohm, that's what you need to pay attention to. At 8 ohms this amp puts out 230 watts per channel or 460 watts in a bridged mode. I found some other amps in bridged mode that put out just over 200 watts, but they were only about $20 cheaper than these.
After purchasing these, I wasn't able to get the subwoofer to work. All I could hear was a humming noise letting me know that at least the power was going through it.
After calling a tech at Pyle he suggested that I get an RCA audio splitter that would go from the single pre amp jack on the receiver and connect to BOTH the left and right input jacks on the Pyle amp. He then suggested to BRIDGE the output to the subwoofer by connecting the black and red speaker wire to BOTH of the RED output amp connectors that are normally reserved for each of the two amp channels (left and right). So, red speaker wire connected to red left amp output and black speaker wire connected to the red right amp output.
After doing this I fired up the receiver and VOILA subwoofer was working perfectly.
Just figured I'd put this out there for any other novices trying to build there own systems. If i had seen a post like this when I bought the subwoofer, it would have saved me a tremendous amount of time.
Only other thing to note is that the Pyle PQA 2100 amp does have a loud fan in it. So there will be a hassle factor in my house that I'll have to manually turn it off each time I'm not using the system, to save energy and keep the noise to a minimum.
PROS: Works like it should
CONS: None thus far.
PROS: Subwoofer Quality Is Wonderful. It Sounds Great!!!!! Better than I anticipated.
CONS: The installation instructions are non-existent. THIS IS WHY I AM NOT GIVING THIS PRODUCT A 10.
PROS: Looks good.
CONS: Gotta cut holes in the wall. :)
AudioSource AMP-100 Stereo Power Amplifier (from Amazon.com)
PROS: Great sound quality and level (I know because my wife complains).
CONS: Difficult to find the right amp to drive it if you don't know what you are doing - which I didn't.
PROS: for the price this thing really pumps.. I have this hooked up to a Dayton audio plate amp at 1/2 gain via LFE. adds a lot of low end to my movies.
CONS: I little hard to install as the instructions are not great. I need to figure out how to get the metal grate to stay put. it pops out sometimes due the woofer pounding.
PROS: This sub is not powered and my Denon amp would not drive it it requires a separate amp or dedicated sub amp. I knew this going into it, so it wasn't a problem. That being said - the sound from this sub is simply ... awesome. Can't beat the price either.
CONS: I think the roll of black goo included with the speaker is supposed to keep the grill attached to the frame during heavy bass sessions? The instructions don't say, so it beats me. I used some of the black stuff sparingly and when I turn up the volume during a demo for friends or family by showing them Top Gun or The Matrix (lobby scene of course) the grill falls off anyway. When this happens it tickles me to the point of amazed laughter so I can't really count this as much of a con. At normal TV volume levels it stays on.
PROS: Nice bass
CONS: mounting instructions not really clear