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Maker Select 3D Printer v2
If you're ready to take your ideas and designs from paper or CAD file to the next level, the Monoprice MAKER SELECT 3D Printer is the perfect starter solution for your needs! Unlike kit-based printers, which require a certain level of knowledge, experience, and time to assemble, the MAKER SELECT 3D Printer is assembled using only 6 screws and includes everything you need to begin printing right out of the box. It has the ability to print any type of 3D filament and has a price point lower than most DIY kits, making it the best in class choice for your 3D printing needs.
At less than the price of new gaming console,
give the gift of learning and creativity this year!
Maker Select 3D Printer (13860)
- Includes 2GB microSD card preloaded with printable 3D models out of the box
- Includes sample PLA filament so you can print right out of the box
- Heated build plate allows for high-reliability printing of slow cooling materials
- Can use compatible software, such as Cura, Repetier, or Simplify 3D
- Expanded user's manual with detailed, easy-to-follow assembly and usage instructions
- Tighten just 6 screws and be printing in 10 minutes
- Choose to give the innovative and creative gift of learning
Heated Build Plate
The heated build plate allows you to print slower cooling materials.
MicroSD Card Slot
Use a microSD™ card to store sliced GCode files, then plug the card into the microSD card slot to print without the need to connect to a Windows® or Mac® PC. The printer includes a 2GB microSD card with sample 3D models, which you can slice and store on the card for direct printing.
Monoprice not only stands behind every product we sell with a 1 year replacement warranty, we offer a 30-day money back guarantee as well! If the product you purchase does not satisfy your needs, send it back for a full refund.
Quality at a Fair Price
Monoprice's rugged design and rigid quality control standards deliver high quality products at fair prices.
Service & Support
You're never on your own with Monoprice products! We have a full team of friendly and knowledgeable technicians available to answer your questions, both before and after the sale. Contact our technical support team for questions about our products, troubleshooting, or even suggestions for products to fit your particular needs. Not to be outdone, our friendly and helpful customer service team is here to make your ordering, delivery, and any possible returns a quick and painless operation, from start to finish!
Mini 3D Printer
|Heated Build Plate||✓||✓||✓|
4.7" x 4.7" x 4.7"
(120 x 120 x 120 mm)
7.9" x 7.9" x 7.1"
(200 x 200 x 180 mm)
7.9" x 7.9" x 6.9"
(200 x 200 x 175 mm)
|Resolution||100 microns (0.1mm)||100 microns (0.1mm)||20 microns (0.02mm)|
|Printing Speed||55 mm/sec||100 mm/sec||150 mm/sec|
|Max. Extruder Temp.||446°F (230°C)||500°F (260°C)||500°F (260°C)|
|Connectivity||USB, MicroSD™ card||USB, MicroSD™ card||USB, SD™ card|
ABS, PLA, XT Copolyester,
PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA,
HIPS, Jelly, Foam, Felty
ABS, PLA, XT Copolyester,
PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA,
HIPS, Jelly, Foam, Felty
ABS, PLA, XT Copolyester,
PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA,
HIPS, Jelly, Foam, Felty
- User's Manual (May 9, 2017)
- Manuel d'Utilisateur (Français) (May 9, 2017)
- Benutzerhandbuch (Deutsche) (May 9, 2017)
- Manuale Utente (Italiano) (May 9, 2017)
- Manual de Usuario (Español) (May 9, 2017)
- Quick User's Guide (Nov 11, 2015)
SD™ and microSD™ are trademarks or registered trademarks of SD-3C, LLC in the United States, other countries, or both.
Apple®, Mac®, and OS X® are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries.
Microsoft® and Windows® are registered trademarks of Microsoft Corporation in the United States and/or other countries.
Questions and Answers
Width - 16"
Length and Depth- 15 1/4"
Height - 15 1/4" - 23" with the spool holder with our filament spools.
Here are the measurements of the control box:
Width - 4 3/4"
Length - 13 1/2"
Height - 4 1/2"
P.S. I love the printer, even with the possible warped bed it seems to do a great job printing. Very easy to jump into for a first time printee.
The second thing that I did was find a more precise way of calibrating and leveling the bed. My solution to this was to buy a dial indicator. You can find a dial indicator on an online retailer with acceptable precision and accuracy for less than 30$. Once I had the indicator, and since my bed leveling was now staying within acceptable range between prints thanks to the lock nuts, I printed out a mounting bracket for this printer. You can find dozens of options for these on thingiverse (any website where models are shared) and they take a minimal amount of time to print. Whichever bracket you end up deciding on combined with the dial indicator will make your bed leveling process more accurate and less painful. You measure in the same spots you usually do, but now you have a gauge to look at instead of sticking a piece of paper under the extruder nozzle a dozen times per corner. This thing can really fly when you get it dialed in, Good luck!
BUT- 1. It voids your warranty, 2. It's not a job for some just getting into this.
The Monoprice Select is a variation of the Prusa i3 and Wanhao i3. There are several companies that sell conversion kits, but it's really like building a whole new printer, a massive and fairly expensive job.
My printer needs calibration about every 3 weeks. the bed either compresses or extends due to the thumb screws moving slightly after many prints.
The printer came packaged very well and included everything needed to get started. I only had a couple of hours on the first day to spend setting it up, and I fully expected to have to do some troubleshooting. After getting everything unboxed and on my desk I followed the printed sheet of instructions included in the box. The instructions were very clear, however setup issues still came up and I had to work through those.
First, I had trouble loading the filament into the extruder. No matter how much I tried to force it in, it just wouldn't feed. I then read online that it's easier to cut the end off at an angle and that will make it easier to feed. And sure enough, as soon as I had a bit of an angle on the end, the extruder was able to grab the filament. This step would be really helpful if it were included in the documentation.
Next, I had a small issue with my Z axis not being level. This was my fault and a result of me manually moving it after getting it setup, it is entirely possible that it came level from the factory. Getting the Z axis back to level was a little tricky as I couldn't very well get a carpenters level on it, but a plain old ruler did the trick.
Once the Z axis was straightened out, I set to leveling the bed. I took great care to level it and my investment was rewarded. It's vitally important to make sure that only one piece of printer paper can fit under the extruder. Using two pieces of printer paper, I moved the nozzle around the bed about two inches inside of each corner and slid one piece under the nozzle, continuing to make fine adjustments until the second sheet wouldn't fit any more. After completing my first pass, I made a second pass to true everything up and make sure it was level.
Once everything was level, I loaded up my first test model from the included SD card and was printing. It took two hours, but I had my first print and the quality looked very good compared to other examples I'd seen on the internet.
Even though I had, what I feel, is a good first experience. I do have a couple of small complaints about the product listing. And since this is a new product launch for Monoprice, they aren't unexpected either. First, my printer included a 2GB SD card when the product listing claimed 4GB. Also, there is no longer a link to the product documentation on the product page. It was there the first day, but got removed when the listing was updated. This needs to be added back, it was tremendously valuable to me.
I highly recommend this printer to anyone interested in getting into the hobby, just don't expect it work like an ink jet and don't get discouraged when small problems come up.
PROS: Strong build quality.
Open source design.
Support for multiple filaments.
Stand alone operation.
Very good print quality.
CONS: 2GB SD card included, not the advertised 4GB.
Missing full product documentation link on listing.
From box to desk was about half an hour. First print was an hour after that (take the time to level that bed). Then three days of adventuring began.
I had little issues with bed adherence and layer bonding. Some of the issues are with the Prusa I3 profile in the current release of Cura, and some were because the printer was in a cold, drafty room.
Do listen to this guy on setting up the printer in Cura: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDXo2GBmbtU
Do go to Thingiverse and make this for the bed heater cable:
And this for the filament feed:
And build an enclosure for the printer, like its own little hothouse. I built mine from PVC pipes, 3 way couplers, and vinyl sheeting for about $25.
Then it will start printing like a champ.
It is a very nice printer, and you can't beat the price. You just have to perform some very simple, non-warranty-voiding mods to it.
And you'll know more about 3D printing than when you started.
-Decent out of the box performance on PLA
-Common design = easy to mod
-The 0.5mm nozzle helps with print speed and reduces the chance of an extruder jam.
-Comes with almost every tool you need to use and maintain the machine.
-Did I mention price?
CONS: -The PTFE thermal barrier tube degrades faster at higher temperatures, so ABS will degrade it over time and anything requiring higher temperatures is pretty much out. It also limits print speed (I top out at about 50mm/s for PLA). Fortunately, there is a spare, and bulk tubing is cheap. Micro Swiss also manufactures a compatible all-metal hotend for if you want to try higher temperature materials.
-The cooling fan isn't even aimed in the right direction, and it's underpowered. At the very least, you should immediately rotate the shroud to aim at the nozzle, and you should consider printing a new fan shroud ASAP. Switching to a better fan is also beneficial.
-Leveling the bed is a pain. The wingnuts are difficult to reach and turn, and they can loosen from the movement of the bed. I highly recommend printing a set of one of the many compatible thumbwheel parts on thingiverse as well as the spring holders to make leveling the bed a rare occurrence rather than a common chore.
-The default 0.5mm nozzle can't print with as much detail as the more common .4mm or .35mm sizes, and it also limits the minimum wall size.
-Make sure to have a good set of needle nose pliers for the inevitable jam. I've only jammed it when I did something wrong (bed too high or improper unloading), but you'll want to be able to take apart just in case.
-Again, it bears mentioning that this thing is best when it prints slowly. Expect parts to take at least half again as long as on some other 3D printers.
1st print went well aside from an issue that was my fault (take your time leveling the bed or you lose hours of printing to odd shaped parts). After that short of taking every inch of it apart I spent nearly 24 man hours looking into why ever following print I attempted failed...
It is the SD card... Toss it out buy a name brand one... on bad print worth of PLA or ABS saved will likely cover the cost. Do not be me and lose an entire roll and a half of filament bc you are stubborn and refuse to believe an SD card could take down an entire machine... its a real thing.
Also if you are handy at all look up Vernon Barry on YouTube, he goes by JetGuy. Do pretty much every MOD he shows and also put heat defection tape or a heat shield between the heater wires and filament feed.
In the end does it need way more MODs and setup than just 4 -6 screws... thats a huge yes... but there are only 2 ways to get an awesome printer... spend 2x the money or spend some time with this diamond in the rough and about 15- 50 dollars in supplies (depending on how stocked your junk drawer is)
I'd Buy It Again... and maybe 1 more time lol
PROS: Works great after you fix it, fast assembly out of the box, print quality way better than a $350 printer should
CONS: Heat wires had to be rerouted to prevent filament from warping, The SD CARD IT COMES WITH GOES INTO THE TRASH, The SD CARD CORRUPTS FILES AND FAILS PRINTS, Did i mention THE SD CARD WRECKS EVERYTHING so THROW IT AWAY
PROS: easy assembly.
CONS: should be made in separate pieces .pain in the ass to box up and send back.
PROS: It is a great printer if it works.
CONS: There may be a problem with initial reliability.
First replacement dead after test print, or before, the heated bed would not heat.
Second replacement (arrived mid September), died late December, died in fashion identical to the first one. It had sat for about 6 weeks, also, and was used sparingly when used. Sigh.
But when it did print I was very happy with the results. Not top of the line, but certainly nice for the price. I can't recommend it though based on my experience.
I've successfully printed with PLA (which worked out of the box and has always been relatively easy), ABS (which was a little trickier and appears to always be the case with 3D printers) and T-Glase as well as Nylon variants. This printer is great in that it handles pretty much every kind of filament available. This also makes it economical to operate. Filament choice adds a ton of flexibility and gives you opportunities to print things with the right combinations of flex, brittleness, and strength for whatever job you're doing.
If you haven't owned a 3D printer before, here's some things that surprised me: The print quality can be absolutely *amazing* if you're willing to wait. Postprocessing can be done with nearly every kind of filament to make the edges smooth and give the appearance of injection molding. About the only thing you can't do is make a perfectly transparent part (but you can get very close with T-Glase and an the right epoxy coating).
I've run this thing *non-stop* since I purchased it. Other than the hiccoughs that I ran into with the Y-Carriage, it's performed brilliantly without any part failures or wear. And the printer is a very simple construction - if something fails, you can find parts easily and inexpensively and many repairs can just be printed.
I've used this to print most of the parts to a RepRap tricolor that I'm building and the parts came out perfectly (with the addition of a 0.3mm all metal print head required for a couple of the parts - $14 for the head and $37 for the MK10 all metal kit which included a 0.4mm nozzle - since this comes with a 0.5mm nozzle and it's easy to swap out these parts, that gave me a little more versatility ... T-Glase prints best on large nozzles, detailed parts need smaller to produce the best results).
PROS: It's very nearly there out of the box - by "there", I mean, prints of a quality you might expect to pay more than twice as much for.
There's a huge community behind this printer and it generally gets very good reviews everywhere.
Very easily hacked/modified.
Supports a wide range of filaments and is deeply configurable to cover corner cases you *will* run into.
Uses .gcode and nearly every software application that slices works out of the box for PLA by selecting Prusia i3 and (sometimes) modifying the nozzle head to 0.5mm.
Incredible price *doesn't* leave you with a nice, cheap, 3D printer that's entry level causing you to long for something better.
CONS: You need to be willing to hack a bit to do any 3D printing on any 3D printer. This is no exception. The good news is that this printer has a massive following being based on the Wanhao Duplicator i3. I received the "v2" model of this printer (which has the LCD panel slightly tilted instead of at a 90 degree angle which is an improvement).
You'll want to print the Z-Brackets (Search thingiverse). I also had to purchase a new Y-Carriage mount because the part that the bed screws into is really flimsy and made it very difficult to get a consistent bed level (or to get it to level at all after a few weeks because it bends so easily). Not to worry, they're $20 on Amazon - Get an anodized aluminum one, add some lock nuts to the M3 screws on the bed and print the thumb screw heads and add some lock-nuts to replace the thumb screws and this printer is simply, without a doubt ... *amazing*.
Second - why is this a great printer? It is cheap, versatile, and offers everything one needs to learn the "art" of 3D printing. If you enjoy tinkering - the possibilities with this printer are endless.
Third - for those having problems removing the filament, I found that heating up the nozzle, pushing down the release level while pushing filament down into the heated nozzle about 1-2cm (yes it will squirt filament out while doing this), and then quickly pulling it out allows you to remove it. If it doesn't come out, push some more down and try it again. It appears the filament expands while feeding into the nozzle while doesn't allow it to pull back out. Manually pushing the filament down into the nozzle melts this expanded portion which will fit back through the feed portion once it gets warm enough.
MOD Recommendations: Research the mods online. Vernon Barry - Jet Guy on Youtube has been mentioned before - a great resource for learning the parts of the printer and where to apply some upgrades. Search WANHAO on thingiverse for a huge list of upgrades and mods. As mentioned, and as you will find, this is a PRUSA I3 or WANHAO I3.: Platform thumb screws with some nuts below the heated plate and new self-locking nuts in the bottom are a great upgrade to help keep the build plate level. A MUST. That and do a JET GUY blue-printing z-axis alignment. Then you are pretty much set. Z axis dampers are already installed - not required! You may want to build some z-stop offset blocks, you will have to move the z-stop if you install a glass plate, however there are two sets of tapped holes in the bracket to move the z-stop up without a new bracket.
PLA is easiest to use.
ABS is tricky and took some time to get good results. Cooling causes ends to curl and peel up from the build plate which ruins the print once it becomes "unstuck." I added a glass build plate with PEI, but have had better results with blue painters tape directly on the metal build plate covered with glue-stick. Used 105C platform temp, fan off. For even better results, add a brim and use blue painters tape over the brim once its complete and as the part starts printing.
CURA is free, simple and works well. I invested $150 in simplify3D, but so far it's well beyond what is required to get this running. Download a STL file (3d Model) from thingiverse, load it in CURA, use quick print settings to set ABS or PLA defaults, then switch to EXPERT to tweak the settings. Don't get overwhelmed by the adjustments, I started with build plate temps, nozzle temps, and supports. RAFT works well for a smooth bottom, BRIM as I mentioned, works well for keeping the print stuck to the plate. Then save the GCODE file, copy it to an SD card, and stick it in the printer to start printing. I haven't tried and see no reason to tie up your computer with a USB cable for 3 hours or more to print directly from CURA. Additionally, you can tweak platform temps and other settings from the control panel while warming up/printing if you didn't get them set just right in CURA before generating the GCODE.
PROS: Did I mention the price?
great way to learn how to start printing, and will last a long time
LOTS of available internet documentation and support.
widely compatible with multiple slicer software.
You can completely disassemble, re-assemble as required - all open source hardware/software
CONS: Single extruder (vice dual), but for a good starter printer, my sense is dual extruders get well into the more advanced level and really aren't necessary when you are first learning.
Assembly was a breeze. The printer came well packaged and protected. 4 screws are all that's needed to attach the frame to the base. From there you're setting up the bed with the tape and then making adjustments for the extruder height. All very easy.
The quick start guide was to the point and doesn't offer much in the way advanced instruction, so be aware that there's a full downloadable manual. Additionally, the quick start guide doesn't mention that there's some black electrical tape on the axis stops. It's easy to miss these as it blends in with the frame, particularly if you don't have a good light source.
The electronics seems to be pretty good, though I've only had it printing for about 48 hours over the past week and a half - so I can't speak to their longevity. They're reasonably accessible in the case that can be disassembled. I would have liked to have seen the electronics come with connectors so that the frame can be completely detached from the electronics case. Otherwise it's nearly a two person job to move the whole thing from your assembly area to it's more permanent home.
The SD card comes preloaded with a couple small models to start printing with. My first print was the butterfly logo that was on there and I was very impressed with it. The sides were perfectly smooth - though this may be because I had the extruder much too close to the bed. Getting that height correct is necessary to keep the filament from bonding with the tape (even with a raft!). That mangled one of the only 2 sheets of tape included. I'll be looking into a more permanent solution like a glass topper or some other film. The tape just isn't a long term option.
My second and third prints were cases for a HeaterMeter and Ergodox keyboards. I think they came out quite well. It's worth noting that I've only tried printing with some Hatchbox PLA, I haven't yet tried ABS or any other plastics.
For software, the SD card came preloaded with a pre-configured version of Cura dedicated to the "IIIP." I hadn't realized that and downloaded and configured the current version of Cura and have been running my prints with that. The SD card's software seems configured for higher resolution printing and results in drastically longer prints as compared to what I downloaded and configured. Unless I'm printing a showpiece, I'm going to stick to a bit of a lower resolution for the time benefits. That's totally in your control, though.
Control is a big thing in 3d printing. We're working with open source designs, customizing our own models, sharing them through various repositories, and tinkering with our printers. I have no illusions that the electronics and mechanical end stops are not necessarily the pinnacle of 3d printing advancement, and that's perfectly OK! This printer functions extremely well for it's price point and I'm thrilled to have picked it up. There's plenty of room on this for future upgrades and enhancements - and that's why I noted in the title that this is a great starting point. It's going to last awhile and along the way you'll probably upgrade the bed, and maybe add some optical stops etc etc..
All told, for someone getting into the hobby, this is a great starting point. It gets you from zero to printing in an hour. The print quality is really really good and there's very little fussing over the calibration. The barrier to entry is really pretty low here and there hasn't been a better time to get into it.
PROS: Quick and easy assembly. Frame feels very sturdy. Goes from box to printing in under an hour.
CONS: Fan already screeching like a banshee - already had to buy a replacement. Electronics box is very heavy and it being unable to completely detach the wiring it is quite cumbersome to move.