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4x2 True Matrix HDMI® Switch with Remote Control (Rev. 3.0)
If you're like most people, you have your home theater setup in one room, but have TVs in other rooms as well. This gives everyone in the house the ability to watch what they want, when they want. But what if the kids want to watch a DVD while you want to watch the big game in the living room with your friends? You can lug the DVD player to the other room for the kids, but a better solution is to use an this 4x2 True Matrix HDMI® Switch from Monoprice!
With this switch you don't need to move equipment from room-to-room, nor do you have to buy duplicate equipment for the other room. This matrix provides 4 HDMI inputs, which allows you to connect the Xbox 360™, cable box, blu-ray player, and the output from your Android phone. Any of these four inputs can be independently selected for either of the two outputs. Both displays can select the same or different inputs.
The switch includes a remote control, allowing direct selection of any of the inputs for each of the two outputs. Additionally, the matrix can be controlled by a computer, via an RS232 serial port, as well as front panel controls.
The matrix supports the full High Speed 1080p@60Hz HDMI video resolution and features a 6.75Gbps bandwidth, sufficient to support 3D video, 36-bit Deep Color, x.v.Color, and high-definition multichannel audio, including Dolby TrueHD™ and DTS-HD Master Audio™. It is powered by an included 5 VDC, 2A AC adapter. The four input and two output HDMI ports are gold plated to ensure smooth, corrosion-free connections. It measures about 10.2" x 4.5" x 1.3".
A spare/replacement remote is available as PID 6166.
Note: Monoprice strongly recommends using 22AWG, 24AWG, or active HDMI cables with Redmere technology to achieve the best results and to ensure minimum signal loss over longer distances.
|Deep Color Support||Up to 12-bits/channel (36-bits total)|
|Audio Support||PCM, Dolby®-AC3, DTS®7.1, DSD|
|Data Transfer Rate||2.25 Gbps / channel (6.75 Gbps total)|
|Input Video Signal||0.5 ~ 1.0 volts p-p|
|Input DDC Signal||5 volts p-p (TTL)|
|Maximum Cascade Layers||6|
|Maximum Output Cable Length||49.2 ft. (15m)|
|Maximum Working Current||1200mA|
|Input Power||5 VDC, 2A|
|AC Adapter Input Power||100 ~ 240 VAC, 50/60 Hz|
|Operating Temperature||+23 ~ +95°F (-5 ~ +35°C)|
|Dimensions||10.2" x 4.5" x 1.3"|
All power ratings are measured with all channels driven.
* EIA 1kHz Power refers to maximum average power in watts at 1kHz with 0.005% THD and noise.
** FTC Full Bandwidth Power refers to maximum average power in watts from 20Hz to 20kHz with 0.03% THD and noise.
- User's Manual (Jul 8, 2011)
- RS232 Control Codes (Jun 2, 2009)
- RS232 Control Application for Windows ver 09.0.1 (May 20, 2009)
HDMI®, the HDMI Logo, and High-Definition Multimedia Interface are trademarks or registered trademarks of HDMI Licensing LLC in the United States and other countries.
Xbox® and Xbox 360® are registered trademarks of Microsoft Corporation.
DTS® is a registered trademark and the DTS logos, Symbol, DTS-HD™, and DTS-HD Master Audio™ are trademarks of DTS, Inc.
Dolby® and the double-D symbol are registered trademarks of Dolby Laboratories. DolbyTrueHD™ is a trademark of Dolby Laboratories.
Assuming the monitors you are using are used for both the PC and the Laptop, this may be possible. You will need to be able to provide 2 inputs from your PC and 2 from your laptop to plug into the HDMI input ports on the switch. Inputs are labeled as 1, 2, 3, 4. Outputs are labeled as A and B, with 1 of your monitors hooked up to A and the other hooked up to B. Assume your PC inputs would be 1 and 2, and your laptop inputs are 3 and 4. You can then select input 1 to go to A and input 2 to go to B which would allow you to view your PC. You can also select input 3 to go to A and 4 to go to B and you can now view your Laptop.
When the device is powered up and connected independent of that serial port, it will stay on until it is manually shut off. Anytime you shut the unit off or it is remotely shut off by the serial port, when it is powered back up you will need to reselect the output each time.
Using one as the heart of an HDMI distribution network, I bring SAT-1, SAT-2, DVD, and ROKU into this switch, to form two switchable "Busses" each of which can independently select one of the four sources. Then route each of the two switchable outputs to four-way splitters that serve several TVs on both floors of the house, with additional 4-way splitters where needed. Nearly all with Monoprice gear & cabling. Most of the TVs have two or more HDMI input ports, so the TV connection to the Busses is a natural. Result is that any two of the sources can be simultaneously viewed as desired on any TV. The girls can watch a chick-flick in the LR, then move to the Kitchen on either SAT, DVD, or ROKU while they think about and prep dinner, while us guys can watch Soccer/Superbowl/Olympics/Whatever on the other SAT downstairs in the Fam Room & the Game Room.
Have had this system working since early January - 6 weeks - without problems, except that last evening when a camcorder was connected to the ROKU port, the colors were totally messed up. Quick power-off reset of the switch fixed that. No probs with any of the HDCP BS anywhere. System runs as high as 1080i so far. Remote works too.
Bottom line, All PROS, no CONS, reasonable price. Well, one little CON, where am I going to input the HT PC????? H'mmm may need another one. Lifes' complicated.
PROS: Fast simple setup.
Works over long runs (50 feet) using large gauge cable
No loss in qulity
Easy to setup with Harmony remote.
Used all Monoprice 24 gauge HDMI cables with net-jacket. Connected the 5312 to the kitchen TV using a 12' cable and to the living room TV using a 6' cable. Used 4' and 6' cables from the devices to the 5312 inputs 1 and 2.
Powered the 5312 on and it found the 8300HD DVR on input-1 and sent it to both TV sets. Switched the living room set to the Magnavox DVR. Now had cable to the kitchen and Magnavox to the living room. Switched both TVs to the Magnavox and everything worked.
The remote works fine directly in the living room or using a PowerMid X10 IR receiver/transmitter from the kitchen to control the units in the living room. When switching inputs, it takes about 8-9 seconds for HDMI handshaking to occur and both TV sets are blacked out during that time. No biggie for me.
Sound is synced on both TVs as long as they are both set to the same input. When the kitchen TV was set to the 8300HD DVR and the living room TV was set to the Magnavox DVDR, I turned off the Magnavox and the living room TV started receiving the 8300HD DVR signal even though the input LED was still set to the Magnavox. BUT there was an echo due to sound delay. I switched the living room TV to the 8300HD DVR and the echo went away. So it is imperative that both TVs be set to the same input to prevent audio echo.
I'm very happy with the performance of the 5312 Matrix. The picture quality is the same as when it's not in the circuit. There is no noticeable additional channel changing delay when changing channels on the 8300HD DVR or the Magnavox DVDR. I'm glad I bought the 5312 and would buy it again if I need another one.
BTW, the 24 gauge HDMI cables with netjacket are thick but reasonably flexible. Certainly not as flexible as 28 gauge cables without the net jacket. But Monoprice recommends only 24 gauge HDMI cables be used with this 4x2 Matrix so that's what I bought. Everything worked out of the box so I guess buying the 24 gauge cables was a good thing.
PROS: Worked perfectly right out of the box.
PROS: Being able to switch any of 4 sources between two displays.
CONS: Subpar remote.
The only problem was one of the components in my setup would not allow me to do what I was trying to do with the switch. Here is my setup
Pioneer VSX1018AH-K A/V Receiver
Panasonic TH-50PZ800U 50 plasma TV
Scientific Atlanta 8300HD Cable Box/DVR (Cox Cable)
Sony PS3 for Blu-ray
What I was trying to achieve with the switcher was sending the SA8300 HDMI output to both the A/V receiver (for cable based multi-channel audio) and the TV directly. This would allow the wife and kids to watch cable by just turning on the TV and cable box using the TVs speakers. Simple for everybody. And no, I do not have a universal remote. When we want to watch a cable HD movie with multichannel surround sound the receiver is turned on for the full 5.1 effect.
Now the fly in the ointment. It appears that most HDTVs (so I read now online) only support 2 speaker audio (of course, they only have two speakers). Apparently, with all the intelligence of HDMI, the TV tells all the other components that it is only 2 channel audio whenever it is in the HDMI loop. So the receiver (Im guessing) only outputs 2-channel audio when trying to watch known 5.1 channel audio programs using the cable box. No matter how I try to force it, the receiver always goes to 2-channel audio if the TV is on (one of the ways Ive determined it was the TV).
So while the HDMI switch is awesome it doesnt get me around the wonders of HDMI bidirectional communication. So, Ive reverted to sending 5.1 channel audio from the cable box to the receiver via digital coax and selecting the Dolby Digital output in the audio setup (vs the HDMI audio output) of the cable box. The cable box HDMI goes directly to the TV to get the simple cable box/TV audio. Except when I forget to switch back to HDMI audio. Then the wife has to learn how to press the Settings button on the cable box remote twice to get to the AudioHDMI setting.
Oh well. Ill keep the switch. You never know when it will come in handy.
Two added benefits I've realized.. Harmony has discrete codes for both my switch and the 3da1.. so I'm back to one remote again.. Oh, and I can have up to *FOUR* 3d sources now...
Also, I can now tweak the color settings on HDMI3 for 3d separately from other content.. While it does group my PS3 and DVR together, I feel like that is better than trying to apply 3d color settings to non 3d content.
I've been considering purchasing this 4x2 HDMI switch.. and programming my Harmony remote to have a 3d mode... Basically, all non 3d content will come through HDMI2 (and bypass the 3da1), when I click a 3d activity, it will use HDMI3 and go through the 3da1.. sounds good in theory at least!
We'll see if my ascii diagram works
HDMI Source 1 (3d/or not) S
HDMI Source 2 (3d/or not) w- HDMI 2 (Samsung)
HDMI Source 3 (3d/or not) c - 3da-1 - HDMI 3 (Samsung)
HDMI Source 4 (3d/or not) h
The switch (Swch) comes with a wireless remote control. It also has Harmony Universal Remote codes, so you can automate the selection..
Basically you import all activities to use HDMI 2, and send the correct signal to the switch...
For HDMI sources which support 3d, you create a 2nd activity which flips your switch to HDMI3/3da-1
PROS: This switch is awesome... It works as advertised, and supports my 3d content.. I'm using it with a Mitsubishi 3da-1 to provide 3d content to my 2009 Samsung 3d DLPTV.
CONS: I have seen red, green, and blue "snow" occasionally.. It seems to go away by switching to a different source and coming back... I wish it didn't happen at all.. but it only occurs 5-10% of the time...